Day 12: Charlotte can't make it up the Volcano

Sleep was up and down. Though the accomodations were nice, they came with additional guests in the bloody sucking variety. So we had to light three mosquito repellant coils inside to try and dissuade their feasting activites while I personally sprayed "Off" with deet on every inch of my body. 

The morning greeted us with the sun and the heat, thank goodness for air con, and we were trying to make decisions about the day. By the time we had breakfast by the sea, I had a shave and my mates had a dip; we were ready for the next adventure. 

We split the mountains and headed for Kitimani by Batur Lake. We went back through Amlapura and there it was, like a beacon of light, an ATM. We had not seen one since before Padangbai, 2 days earlier, and we were running out of $$. It's hilarious, in Ubud you can't throw a stone without hitting an ATM, but out there we drove probably 200 km without seeing a single one.

We decided that we should see the highest and largest temple in Bali, Temple Bashik on Mt. Agung. We took a wrong turn and ended going up the highest road in Bali & by the time we realized it, the temperature had dropped 20 degrees and we were literally in the clouds. Of course the road got steeper and steeper and before we knew it, sweet Charlottes 4-banger engine could carry us no farther. So what do sane people do? Shane and I jumped out to lighten the load and Ali rolled backwards to flatter terrain back about 1/2 km and we try it again. Once he came flying by us with his fist pumping out the window and disappeared around a corner above us, Shane and I realized our folly. Here's a clip of it.



So began our 1/2 mile trek up the steepest part of the road ... Brilliant. And you would think our lesson had been learned, but no, we jumped back in and started the next incline, to the same result. So rinse and repeat, out and up we go. Let's just say Shane and I got our leg workout. Once we realized Charlotte was probably done with the climb, we headed back down the mountain, and that's when the rain came ... From within the cloud we were in. Kind of crazy to think that the rain falling on us was being created in the cloud we were traveling through.

We finally find the temple Besakih after following throngs of open air trucks/cattle cars piled in the back with 10, 15, sometimes, 20 people. As we wind through unpredictable terrain, it finally opens up to a massive parking lot of ... filth. I thought we had accidentally followed people to the dump, but no, this was the lot for your car and where you begin your climb. We parked, payed 5,000Rp, watched where we stepped, and followed the crowd. Warungs were lining the road on either side selling everything from wooden quacking ducks to imposter purses and shoes. The streets were packed, woman balancing all kinds of baskets on their heads, men walking next to them without anything, it was mayhem. On top of that, I believe we were the only westerners out of the 20,000 + people there at that moment. Now combine that with the fact that hygiene is lost on these people, from offerings not accepted to whatever the remains of their meal, it all ended up on the ground, in piles, and everywhere you stepped... When we reached the temple a mile later it only got worse. There were thousands sitting outside the temple on the offering lined grounds, either having picnics or staring at the mountain or bowing down. We did not have sarongs, so we could not enter the temple, but from what we saw, it was a-ok with all of us. Here is a clip about it of the mayhem ...



We quickly returned to Charlotte and got the heck out of dodge, collectively thinking we could of missed that temple.

When we finally returned to Ubud, we were exhausted and in need of a shower. Ali and I split a room at Suarsea, down an alley off an alley, which was surprisingly well appointed. I showered and got a sim card for my phone and then headed off for
Bunute's for some Arak Madu ... My favorite Bali drink thus far. Ari was there, generous as always, and soon Shane joined us as well. After about an hour I headed for a wifi connection and the continued their night without me, a night that Ali would not soon forget. 

Nite nite via the iPhone blogger