Day 83 (part 2): Day 3 of Minsk Adventure - A Top Ten Day of my Life

A few km outside Muong Lay - road turns to dirt

Reach Muong Lay expecting it to be a huge town ... it is not. It is getting dark, it's been a slower ride than expected because of road conditions. The last 15 km into town is a straight decent, hugging the mountains, sheer 1000 - 3000ft drops on one side, rocky ledge climbing straight up on the other. Last 5 km is under construction, the surface 6 inch deep mud. Ideal jacked up bike conditions. Literally Muong Lay is a 100 meter long street, warungs lining either side, mud mixed with asphalt road. We pull over, excuse me, where is Muong Lay? How do we get to Muong Lay? "Muong Lay". No, no, we're looking for a hotel in Muong Lay. "Yes, hotel Myong Lay", as she points down a small alley.

About a km from Muong Lay

Will laughs at me, "Mate, they don't know English, no need to speak so proper, just use one word. Like Muong Lay." Uh, that's two words. "You're too formal mate, just say, town or road or mechanic." How about hotel? "Good".  She again points down alley. We dismiss her.

From above we had seen a bigger city across a river with proper concrete structures a few km from this mining town, that has to be Muong Lay. Will takes the lead, press on towards the concrete city, asphalt quickly turns to mud again, mud goes from 1 to 6 inches deep, then 12 inches, trying to stay in the big rig tire ruts, lights still not working, hands and elbows scabbed over, sun setting quickly, steering wheel askew.

1 km away, Will turns down a hill towards grouping of shanti's, muddy deeply-rutted road stretching towards proper town. Stops at gaggle of teenagers,  points towards the concrete town and the road, "Town?" Kids nod. Will, you sure about that? He takes off, kids laugh, call out to other friends, they appear out of nowhere. Me thinks something's awry, I hang back to watch.

Will's fairing well, ruts getting deeper, 25 yards, 50 yards, progresses, wait, where's Will? Splash, bang, Will and bike pop back up, try to stop, not so quick, momentum forward, gone again, splash, bang, pops back up. Mud is everywhere, Will freezes, kids rolling on the ground, I barely get out the words between laughter, WILL, THERE IS ANOTHER WAY, COME BACK! Will clearly shaken, hesitantly turns bike back, splash, bang. 5 minutes later, slowly, he pulls up, kids scatter, he smiles. Mud coated from waist and motorcycle down, splatter on face and everything else. Let's try the other one.

The Bridge to not Muong Lay

Like fish in a stream, back up the hill, continue towards proper town, following the locals. And there it is, stretching a 100 yards, 50 feet above the river, enough room for 2 bikes to barely pass, our only way to the town. Follow the bikes down a tight s curve to the base of the Indiana Jones bridge, nerves awry, bikes passing each other, inches from collision. Uh ... slowly proceed, I first, Will 2nd, pass 4 or 5 bikes, who am I, where are we, seriously! Reach the other side, unreal, avoid big rigs on the mud hill to the concrete roads, we've made it! Sun is down, we mull around the streets, stopping locals, Hotel? Strange looks, no response. Town is deceiving, from above it looks bustling, full of proper buildings and life, but on ground level, looks like a ghost town, shells of building, largest being a school. "You Lost?" Was that English, turn to find the one English speaking local, studied in the states, informs us the only hotel is in Muong Lay, 3 km back ... that's right, the mining town.

My headlight is broken and dangling, Will's is mud coated, night has fully set in, light cloud cover, no moon to be seen. Back we go, down the mud hill, traverse the wood planked swinging bridge, up the s-curve, into the 12 inch deep mud ruts, avoiding the dirt moving semi's, following the light of other bikes, turn on the main street, down an alley, and there it is, 50 feet from where we started ... the hotel. Hose off the bikes, hose off Will, our shoes, get a room ($20/nt - rip off), shower up, eat, and crawl inside mosquito netted canopies onto sagging mattresses for the night. Wow, wonder what tomorrow will bring.

Nite Nite from the iphone blogger.