Day 77: Moving on up, to the .... North

Awake to the sky opening up, wind gusting. Will arrives in the morning having checked out of his hotel, contemplating moving on or crashing with us on more night. Our original plan was to make this a beach day, but with the rain, it's never going to happen. Two things holding us back from moving on: 1. Simon still deciding on a tailor made suit, which would require at least one whole day. 2. The walking tour as suggested by Simon's Lonely Planet.

First, after processing the idea of a one day made suit, he agrees for a quality fit they'd need more. He also is eager to move on, he only has a certain amount of time in Vietnam. Second, since the bus would not leave until 2pm, we have about 3 hours to do the 2 hour walking tour, obviously feasible. We buy tickets on a bus through the hotel and head off for our walking tour.

It is basically a 2km stroll through the old part of town where all the shops and tailors are, but with a focus on the occasional historical landmark. My favorite part is the old ladies by the wharf, faces that would stop a speeding bullet, work ethic embarrassing to most, gap toothed smiles from ear to ear. Something magical about the simplicity of their lives and the joy they exude.

Side note observation: In Hoi An it's been a rare find to spot a full grown dog. You see puppies everywhere, chewing on rags, or nestling up to their owners, but a full grown dog, no. Why is this? I choose to ignore the obvious and opt for the "they're napping all day" theory.

Ok so I have not told you much about Simon. Terribly nice guy but cautious to a fault and fixated on his lonely planet book or French forums. "I think it's better if we goes here, the book says." "As you want" meaning I'm trying to placate you but in reality I disagree otherwise he says "I think yes". Hilarious. I conceded some, he conceded some. I'm more adventurous and like to explore off the beaten path. Don't want to do the same as everyone or lonely planet all the time. I just want to seek out, talk to people, explore.

Do the walk, end up in a smelly market, fish everywhere, run into multiple ladies 90 years in the face balancing two weaved woks attached to a single bamboo pole containing anything from mountains of squid, bushels of pineapples, to buckets of snapper. They're chopping off fish heads, paddling canoes with a fresh catch, transporting things, and at their age, thoroughly impressed. Hit up my favorite art gallery, then the 9th century bridge, look down, it's 1:30.

Required to be back at the hotel by 1:45 for the bus pick up, the bridge is a good 15 minutes away and Simon has disappeared down another street to buy a photograph. Arrive back with 2 minutes to spare, Simon's no where to be found, bus pick up just arrived. Stall, stall, stall. 5 minutes later, Simon comes in hobbling, still with bum toe from Nha Trang accident, and off we go. Hue is a short 6 hour bus ride so no sleeper this time, just normal upright seat style coach this time.

Along the way, we pass through Danang, it's beautiful. Tree covered mountains crashing into the sea, heavy gray clouds billowing over the peaks, white caps being blown against it's base. Pass a random barge accidentally beached, ironic wording on it's side, "Safety First". Charge through a 6,280 meter tunnel (almost 4 miles) with exceptionally bad ventilation, diesel fumes pouring into the cabin, no one light a match!

Reach Hue, find a fair enough hotel for $15, split between 3, that's cheap cheap. Hit up a promising restaurant called Little Italy, order a thick crust pepperoni for way too much, disappointed with the thin uninspired pie. Head back to the hotel and call it a night.

Nite nite gang, iPhone Blogger