Day 63: Still traveling ... 30 hours later - Cambodia

Wake up on bus ... "Bangkok". No one moves. This can't be it, it's only 4:30am, barely any lights on the road, and nothing says Khosan Rd. "Get off, we here, Bangkok" ... We look around, no one moves, Thai man comes up, "Bangkok, you get off". Once we realize all our bags are being thrown on the ground outside the bus, we hustle up and depart. I, still groggy from my friend, Mr. Ambien, grab my luggage, and the two Irish lads I befriended in the Ferry station and hail a tuk tuk. They tried charging 200 baht, but with mad negotiating skills I got it down to 40baht for the whole group, pat myself on the back. We take off, pull up to the light 300 yards down the road, take a left, another 100yards and he stops the cab. "Khosan Road". Wait, what? We paid 40 baht for you to take us around the corner .. I should of held out for 20 baht. Dagnabbit.

Proceed down Khosan Road towards the police station where the minibus is picking us up at 7, we have 2+ hours to burn, only things open are sad looking bars and street vendors selling liquor or women. 10 seconds down the road, we hear a clatter from behind us, turn just in time to see a Thai guy run up to some whitey and pop him square in the jaw, down he went. 2 of his mates then throw punches at the Thai and up went the riot mentality. Within a few seconds 10 to 20 people were swinging fists, plastic chairs, 2x4s, anything they could grab. We missed the action by moments and were slowly moving away while watching this train wreck. It's what can happen late at night when people are drunk and stupid and wheeling too much testosterone. I feel like this about fights in general, I get it on the playground when you are not mature or emotionally aware enough to use your words, but as grown men ... Come on now. It's funny because I have met so many Brits on this trip who have conveyed this same sentiment. They have numerous friends back in the UK who live to get drunk on weekends and swing their fists. Maybe it makes them feel alive and is the one thing they can control in their life? Maybe it's the one outlet for the rage and frustration of a nine to five without a healthy outlet like writing or the gym. Regardless, I like to think man can do and be better than that, maybe I'm just naive. On with Khosan Road. We see Starbucks on the road, get excited, only to find it closed and unable to find an "hours of operation" schedule. We press on, make it to the steps of the police station, our pick up spot, but it's only 5:15am - time to explore.

Having been down Khosan Road, we explore the surrounding streets and find a hotel/restaurant/lobby that was open. Inside we are able to use the Internet for 10 baht/15 min, essentially, $1/45 minutes, cheap cheap. Only caveat, you cannot plug cameras or thumb drives into the computer, so internet only. Spend a good 45 touching base with people, answering emails, checking on Big 12 Tourney info. Then it was back to the Khosan Police station to await our pick up and find out if we are entered into the minibus lottery or have a coach bus ... Please be a coach, please be a coach, please be a coach ...

It's not a coach. It's a mid-level minibus, half full which means I get to ride bitch again. Excuse my French, but that's what it's called where I come from, and with good reason. Stuck in a row of 4, on both sides of me are full size western men, threaten to cuddle with the Canadian to my right ... that's twice in one trip, becoming a theme me thinks. The cloth seats are in fair condition, the roof is extra tall, AC works well ... Other than my personal position, it's a winner.

Off we go, ask how many hours, the driver holds up 1 finger. One hour to Cambodia? Sweet! Lean to my right, you believe that? Shannon, the guy to my right who happens to be from CO, looks at me and nods, "no way". Me either. 2 hours later while in the midst of a healthy conversation with Shannon, the driver turns and shushes us. Hold up, it's after 9am, sun is up, several people are napping but others are awake ... Did we just get shushed? Shannon, replies, "not possible", just as the driver turns around and gives us the finger over mouth treatment ... again.

He must be smoking funny weeds if he thinks sophomoric moves like that will be respected. At 3am, I'd get it, 10pm, sure, even 8am. But it's past 9, sun is blazing in all windows, and I highly doubt my intelligent banter about politics and movies would compete with the buses constant honking, breaking, and bouncing. We already were at a low volume, maybe 3 out of 10, lowered it to a 2, and continued on.

Arrive near the border some 3 hours later, it's nearly noon. We are at a transpo station which means get ready for the up-sell. Instructed to get our visas with them, it's 1200 baht. Seems high, but they wouldn't lie, would they? Add on 100 baht for 2 pictures and 100 baht for a rush through the visa line, 10 minutes they say, and my total bill comes to 1400 baht, or $45. Seems fair enough, until we proceed to the Cambodia Visa station, after waiting an hour to exit Thailand, and wait another hour and 15 minutes in the 10 minute rush line, to find out that the visa comes at a cost of 700baht. Scammed again, but what can you do, ask for a refund? Lick your wounds press on.

Now it's off to the cab dispatch, mind you we're carrying our heavy travel packs the entire way, about 2 miles in the 95 degree heat. We each paid $10 at the transpo station for an upgrade to a roomy air conditioned late model cab, the result is them jamming 4 of us into a late 90's model Toyota Camry, I sitting bitch once again. Another joyful theme from this leg of my journey. Remember, it started with waiting, then with cuddling complete strangers, and now it's me sitting bitch in every vehicle possible. Good thing its only 2 1/2 hours by cab on suspect roads. As we enter the car, the "guide" from the transpo center asks for a tip, and I more than willingly give him one. Here's a tip, why don't you and your cohort stop lying and scamming us poor travelers, making us pay double for the visa, charging fees for a rush service you did not provide, all the whilst expecting a tip you have already collected in the form of 700 baht. He stares, thinks about it, then says, "for my family, I am hungry". Woah, you just screwed me and now you want me to tip you for doing that, you are crazy, no tip! Shut the door, Shannon, Tristan (a Canadian I met on the minibus), an I stick firmly to our guns, front seat older gentleman caves. He gets in, "you're right, but he has a family to feed." You realize you perpetuate the problem when you not only condone but tip their bad behavior. Silence.

We get near Siem Reap and the taxi drops us off at yet another transpo station ... But of course. This one is just a dirt patch with a bunch of tuk tuks. Tristan had already secured his lodging, Palm Garden Guesthouse. I have convinced Shannon to join me at Siem Reap Hostel, a suggestion from Rollo who had been there just weeks before. Now you must have caught on by this point, there's always a catch. Only two can fit on a tuk tuk, thus Shannon and I on one, but they attempt to put Tristan on the back of a moped. Not ok. I stop them as they are securing the bag on the bike. Dude, that's not gonna work. He goes on a tuk tuk too. We all paid the same, and it was way too much, he gets a tuk tuk. "Uh, he goes on motorbike, he is only one." I done with this, motorbike is not an option. Put him on a tuk tuk now. "Ok, he goes on tuk tuk, you go sir". We don't leave until we see him on one. And so we wait as they move his stuff onto another tuk tuk.

Another guy with relatively good English jumps on the front of our tuk tuk facing us ... And here is the up-sell. "What are you doing in Siem Reap?" Uh, we came to watch the stagnant water in the river sit still and cause algae build up ... He knows exactly why we are there. But he's nice, made sure Tristan had a tuk tuk, so we listen. By the time we arrive, we have scheduled a tuk tuk for the 3 of us or $15 to pick us up at 5am, get us to Angkor Wat by sunrise, and stay with us through sundown. Initially he tried to get more for 3 people and more for the whole day, but I hold firm, willing to find other transportation. We will see them him at 5am.

Siem Reap Hostel is surprisingly cool. Rollo did well with this suggestion. It had a bar, and a lounging area, internet room, free wifi, a swimming pool, and 2 open air tv rooms. The dorms were nice as well, 3 sets of bunk beds, cold AC, real mattresses. The only drawback, the bunk beds were built solid and sturdy, but the top bunks were literally 7 feet off the ground. Ceilings were 12 feet high, so not a problem. But climbing up and down is a bit harrowing and the side railing is at the same level as the mattress, so if you're a "sleep roller", it's a long fall.

Bags are in, valuables are secure, I'm famished, email Tristan a location and off we go into Siem Reap proper. Pub Street, the major thoroughfare in Siem Reap, varied selection of cuisine, so excited. On the corner, literally on the sidewalk, no covering, we sit at make shift tables, plastic chairs, order authentic Cambodian food, spend $2 each, and head off to explore. 10 minutes later, seen most the town, food is settling, sleep is catching up with us. Tuk tuk is coming at 5am, time to head back and hit the hay, only 7 hours until pick up.

Alright, nite nite via the iPhone Blogger.