Awoke about 11am after an unexpected night at the beach. Yes, Tim and I aimed to get some much needed shut eye and returned to our hostel early, but the bass and music from the beach was so loud, the walls were bouncing. So we gave it a go, and found that the party only gets started after midnight. There was fire, there was foam, there were bikinis and buckets a plenty, and let's not forget what led us there, all kinds of dance music. We stayed for what felt like an hour and by the time we hit the hay it was 4:30 in the morning - uh, so much for an early night.
So I awake at 11am, much earlier than desired, but not unexpected since the beds were like concrete. Awake Tim and we head to what becomes our favorite bistro of the week, Mama's Schnitzel.
The hostel was fairly empty when we left but filling up quickly. We meet the two Kiwi's, Chris and Ben, who broke hearts the entire week. There is Will, the British transplant from another hostel, White Elephant. Nicest guy and introduced us to a cool group of Brits he had already met. Then there was Bonnie, 6'2 beautiful brunette from London, and the only girl for a good 2 days, handled it like a champ. And together we held down the fort until the others came.
Everyday had a similar feel. Wake up in the late morning, stretch out my aching back, mattresses were thick mats you find at a gym, no give, like at The Rock (said in Sean Connery accent). Who thinks, hey, this looks like the most uncomfortable mattress in the world, let's by 23 of them for our hostel? Apparently Joe and Guy who own/run it. Actually asked Joe about it, his response, "they were $60/piece, a proper mattress is at least $100, multiply that by 23." Uh, yeah, so? Is that why we also don't have a sink in the hostel and are brushing are teeth in the concrete shower cubicle that backs up? They said they'll get to that in a few weeks ... Me thinks with all the pot intake, it'll be a few months or years. Good guys, nice as can be, just need a little more help in the organization and implementation part of their business.
We then head to the Chicken Schnitzel place with all the Hebrew written on the walls. Apparently chicken schnitzel is a Israeli thing ... who knew? For 60 baht you get 2 filets of deep fried battered chicken on a hoagie bun with lettuce, tomatoes and cucumber - can we say ooh ahh?! It's open 24 hours a day, always has a line, but runs quite efficiently. I've been there at 2am, 7am, noon, 6pm, midnight, always humming, always quick, always satisfying, not typical Thai pace ... glorious! Down at least one schnitzel with chips and maybe two depending on the hunger pains. So good!
It's then time to hit the beach. The sand is white and fine and feels soft to the touch. The only reason to wear flip flops here is if you see a broken bottle from the night before. Surprisingly by 1pm, when we arrive, you can scarce tell that people were partying until sunrise here, barely a remnant in the sand at all. We post up near the volleyball courts and the makeshift soccer field, make a b-line for the water, and it's off for a swim to the buoy. For all my British friends it's pronounced "boo-E" not "boy". They would say, "fancy a swim to the boy?" Uh, I don't see any kids out there ... I offered to correct them on several other words they mispronounce in England, like Vitamins and garages.
So after a good 100 meters out and a 100 meters back, it was time to chill on the sand. Depending on the day our cluster of towels and people would range anywhere from 4 to 14, relaxing, resting, recuperating. Occasionally someone would leave to pick up drinks, usually water for hydration purposes, but on occasion, Chang or Singha. And then it was back to being lazy in the sun on the sand.
Around 6pm the sun staggers to the western side of the island, leaving a shadow across the entirety of the beach. So then it's back to the hostel to shower up, connect up, and determine where dinner will be and at what time. Then most of the guys would hit up the internet for 30 minutes to an hour, luckily Fubar Hostel had free wifi, so I did not have to wander far.
By day 52 and 53, most of the hostel was full. We were joined by the English consortium that had been traveling for a bit together. It was the 19 year old Billy's birthday and they were set on getting him loaded. I caught up with them after they hit the first bar, damage had already ensued, Billy was definitely feeling it, but handling it well. I stole out of the hostel for a moment to grab some "me" time at the local coffee joint, D's Books. Yep, that's right, D's Books is a chain and on Koh Phangan as well as Phi Phi. They serve food and that night I had their chicken breast sandwich with a Mocha Ice Blended, all in, about $6usd. Yes, it's cheaper in Thailand than the US overall, but the islands can be pricey, especially with western food. This was a bit unusual for a night though, most nights we all ate together, whether at Mama's, the Irish Pub, or one of the multiple restaurants showing movies, it was a family affair.
After dinner, about 10:30ish, we meet back at the hostel to pick up stragglers or new additions, and then it is off to the beach. The beach has every kind of activity you could want, from fire juggling, to interactive fire Olympics with burning jump ropes and limbo rods, to foam, lots and lots of foam. And of course there are the stalls ... so many stalls, all with the same buckets willing to negotiate for your business. Remember in the movie Finding Nemo, the seagulls that constantly yelled, "mine, mine, mine?" Well imagine that same crew, behind wooden make shift bucket stands yelling, "here, here, here, hey you, here here here," and loudly at that. The first few times you pass, you fear you did something wrong, then you realize, nah, its just the liquor peddlers trying to make a buck. Buckets ranged from 120 baht ($4usd), depending on if you could suffer through a .3L bottle of Samsong, the local whiskey, can of Coke and Thai Red Bull additive. Or if you require the more sophisticated .3L bottle of Smirnoff Vodka, can of Sprite and Thai Red Bull additive, its a mere 150 baht ($5usd). I personally started with a vodka lemonade, as the Brits called it, but partook of everyone's bucket that I met, so endured through some Samsong as well. The night begins more in spectator mode at The Cactus Bar watching the intoxicated play with fire or juvenile games such as musical chairs and balloon stomp. Always good for a laugh. As the night progressed we moved south down the beach to Zoom and the Foam Party, and so much foam at that. Definitely spent a few nights traipsing through toxic smelling foam, head high and above, mucky sand below, creating tunnels and holding foam balls in my hand like Atlas holds the world above his head. Then you jump in the drink for a quick wash attempting to avoid where people are urinating.
Which brings me to a special night and the reason we all descended upon Koh Phangan, the Full Moon Party. The nights leading up to and down from Full Moon, built and tapered off from the group that descended upon the beach that night, all 20,000 + of them. Glow in the dark paint was the theme of the night, and styling ranged from sayings on peoples chests and backs, my favorite being a young lad who let his mate write whatever he wanted on his back, it said, "Sorry Girls, this way" with an arrow pointing down. Some opted for professionals who set up shop on the beach ... Eh, unoriginal. And then there's our crew - Billy, the 19yr old, became the artist, painting several of the guys up. On Andy, another Brit, a huge lightening bolt down the center of his face, Chris, tear drops on his cheeks, myself, the American Flag from forehead to jawline ... Well done Billy. I was the artist for one bloke, Rollo "Max Brannan", with his receding hairline I painted a target square in the center of his forehead. He's a Brit with a rapist wit, so he utilized the artwork all night long with the ladies. Paul "Snake", another Brit, shocking I know, put "gun" on one bicep, "show" on the other ... brilliant because they're non-existent. Good thing girls typically are pacifist and like personality over guns. Will head to Koh Tao with both of them, as well James "Slug", Mario "Costa", and Andy (no nickname yet).
So as a crew we headed out, everyone previously mentioned, plus Brit's Andy #2, Lachie, George, Steve, and a few ladies, Marilla (Brazilllll!!!!!) and Kiley (West Hollywood). Yeah, I know, I've met maybe 10 Americans my 8 weeks and in my hostel stays a girl who lives 15 minutes from my house. Crazy! Overall we were a dry wit crew, buying buckets, taking the piss at all around, splitting in smaller crews, and scouring the beach for prospects. It was class all the way ... Ok, maybe not but a phenomenal laugh all night!
And much like clock work, home by 4 or 5, take a shower, wash off all the paint, take some Ib profen, drink 1.5L of water, take a literal piss, and hit the concrete mattress for an uncomfortable 6 hours of tossing and turning.
All 6 nights was rinse and repeat, save the last day before we headed to Kho Tao, that was known as the day of the moped. Bonnie, Max Brannan, Snake, Billy, Andy and I all took to it, I being the only one confident and comfortable which equates to me riding the 2 Stroke manual. Did I mention that the infrastructure of this island involves pot holes and roads that apparently were made without concern to grading? On not one but three occasions while down shifting to first up a hill, my front wheel lost contact and it took all I had to bring it back down. Yeah, I'm kind of a stud on the bike, thinking Ducati crotch rocket when I return ... Yes? Uh, no, maybe a Vespa? Hit up a beach on the north end, took some amazing pics, caught the sunset, and there were 5 moons that eve. You can find that pic on facebook if your lucky ... Uh or not lucky, depending on perspective.
And that is a wrap for Koh Phangan, it was a blast, met amazing people, and now it's time for my sign off ... Nite nite from the iPhone blogger!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
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