Awake, it's 8am, plenty of time to pack and ready myself for the bus today. I'm going to Phnom Penh, well known for two things:
1. Worldwide known for the Killing Fields and the S-21 prison, both locations of inhumane atrocities and genocide perpetrated at the hands of the Khymer Rouge.
2. The ability to fire heavy artillery. From shooting AK 47's at targets to launching rockets at cows, if you've got the green, you reign supreme.
I will only be taking part in one of these two activities, fancy a guess at which one? Nah, the more affordable but less adventurous one, though admittedly both are culturally shocking.
Local bus arrives to take me to the main bus station. As we drive, see parts of Siem Reap I've never seen, dirt and trash built up in the gutters of the road, fairly well constructed homes next to shanty's with tarps for roofs, some people hanging inside cardboard boxes for relief from the heat. Inside the local bus, mosquito's travel in packs and are everywhere. Apparently this bus is their home and we are invading. I see a cluster of them swarm an unsuspecting white guy two tows back who apparently had not lathered himself with deet. It wasn't pretty. This is especially disconcerting since the is one of the hubs of the malaria epidemic, as told by our government. Most westerners are encourage to be on meds, but the side effects are to be something awful, so I settled for deep Woods Off with Deet. Have yet to be bitten, thankfully, hoping I make it out of Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos unscathed!
Board the touring bus ... It's full size but local at best. Drop my baggage off underneath, grab myself a window seat near the front. Watch as the only other white person I've seen boards and proceeds towards the back of the bus.
Not 30 seconds later, a Cambodian from the bus company comes to my seat and asks, "you sit your friend?" I'm sorry, who's my friend? He points towards the rear of the bus where the other white guy is sitting. "Pease, you sit your friend?" Who? The other white guy? I don't know him? I shake my head no. He shakes his head yes. Listen, I don't want to sit in the back of the bus. Is this a white thing? He grabs my arm, "You sit in back, come on, go go." So it's gonna be like that? Going Rosa Parks on me because I'm white. I see how you are. I'll move but I ain't happy.
I proceed to the back of the bus and sit next to the only other white person on the bus, some British bloke. To add injury to insult, the aircon vent is broken, no matter which way it's turned, it blows straight down on the Brit, leaving me with only hot stale air. Now you would think with the air coming down on the Brit, it'd have to be displaced about him and onto my seat, mysteriously though, that is not the case. So instead I spend the next 6 hours giving my best impression of Bikram Yoga without the yoga. Brilliant.
Pull into Phnom Penh, traffic is a mess, buses, cars, tuk tuks and motorbikes all fighting for space on the small 4 lane road, 1/2 of the outside lane consumed by parked cars back ends. As sweat trickles downs my throat, back soaked, look out to gray cold buildings that line the road, some 3 story, some 4, entrances on ground floor, 1/2 gated, most open air, dust and dirt lining the pavement and sidewalks. And then we see a KFC, red as an apple, busy as a bees nest, on the corner of a major intersection. Something about seeing western conveniences makes me nostalgic for home. I wonder if Cambodians are the same way while in America? You know, they're in Phoenix, dust lines the roads, it's hotter than hades in the dead of summer and someone is cooking street food near the stadium? Nah, probably not.
We come to some kind of market, bus stops, "Phnom Penh". As we exit the bus, 10 tuk tuk drivers lie in wait, "Happy?" Yes, that's the name of the guesthouse, how'd he know that? Yeah, Happy Guesthouse. How much? "$4, $4". Oh, I should mention that I told the Brit about Happy and now we are friends, going to share a room since Phnom Penh has no dormitory hostels. So the Tukie (like cabbie but tuk tuk driver) is asking for $8 for the two of us = wayyy too much. No! $2, $2 only. I start to turn away, "Ok, ok". Probably could of gone cheaper, but it's $2, who cares.
Happy Guesthouse is also known as Guesthouse #11. It's on this river/lake area where all the backpackers stay. It's $10/night for an extremely basic room, sorta clean, with aircon. All the rooms are on land, the rest of the place stretches out over water, this would be the reception area, tv nook, billiards area, and balconied private seating floating huts. Pretty cool design, it's hot as balls, probably 95 to 100 degrees but there is a breeze coming off the water which helps.
One brilliant thing about guesthouses and hostels, they deal with backpackers and travelers everyday, so easily prepared to meet our needs. Inquire with the lady behind the counter about a visa to Vietnam, the only country I'm visiting that does not allow for border visas. $44 1 day delivery. The visa itself is to be $35 or $40, so I jump on it. Hand over my passport, hand over cash, deal! Next line of business, tuk tuk driver for tomorrow to see the Killing Fields and S21 Prison. Last bit of business, food. Look at the menu, good range of food, happy face stickers on some of the items. I think, that's fun, they really take their name to heart. But then I see at the bottom, 1 happy face sticker costs $5, 2 happy face stickers (extremely happy) costs $10. Thats weird. My British friend informs me, these are special brownies or pizzas or shakes, they have Mary Jane in them. Ohhhh, steer clear of those items.
Alright time for bed. Nite nite friends from your favorite iPhone blogger!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Day 66: Miss my bus ...
Awake around 11am, clearly missing my 6am bus pick up, whoops. Shannon is gone, he actually caught his at 7am, making me look a bit lazy. Yesterday Shannon looked pale and confused, slept a good 6 to 8 hours during the day, still felt dizzy and looked blotchy that evening. I feared it might be Dengue Fever or Malaria, encouraged him to hit up a local clinic, get some drugs, and confirm his health. He took my advice and was taken to the doctor as we made our way out the door to the Pub Crawl. We returned to him asleep in his bed, good news, it was just a high fever and the drugs were taking effect. The fact that he caught his 7am is impressive, the fact that I slept past my 6am pickup is what I call executive. I had made the decision before my head hit the pillow, the alarm was set to off. Head downstairs, pay for an extra night, reschedule the bus trip for tomorrow morning with a pickup at 9:15am, dang I'm good.
Pick up my failed thumb drive, grab Tristan, head out the door, arrive at the "tech" store that locked me out last night, my plight will be known! Different person behind the counter, no worries, explain my issue, he tests it ... same message, "reformat drive d". He reformats it, puts a few small files on, removes the drive, reinserts, it works. "It works, see?" Yeah, I think it's an issue when you put over 3GB of information on it. "It works, see?" I know, but again, you only put a MB on the drive, it happens when you go over 3GB. "It works, see?" Yo, R2D2 listen, you must have many more files on it, 3 or 4GBs not 3 or 4MBs. Understand? "Yes, try on another computer." No. Proceeds to nearby laptop, drive still works with his 4MBs of info on it, I'm done explaining. I don't care, I don't trust it, either give me my money back or upgrade me to the SanDisk, those are the only two options. After 10 minutes of language barrier confusion, he agrees to the SanDisk option, for an additional $3. I would of paid $5 to kill that conversation earlier. As we exit, we see him trying to carefully return the bunk drive into it's original packaging ...
Spent the afternoon at the Blue Pumpkin, a bakery-cafe-coffee shop concept. They excel at coffee and shakes, but steer clear of the burgers. It quickly becomes my favorite stomping ground with the upstairs lounge being home to aircon, wifi, and 5 foot deep couches that act more like beds. Kick my shoes off, Tristan follows suit, we eat we drink, its good. Tristan heads back, I jump on the iphone, spend a good 4 hours lounging, drinking shakes, and catching up on my emails, and all for about $4, it's a rough life.
Return back to the hostel via the central market. If you want it, that's the place to go. Nothing's real, nothing's as cheap as you would expect, but the variety of options and expanse of space is huge. Leave with empty hands, finding nothing I wanted to lug around for a few months. That's just one of my tests for buying any item, no matter how shiny or interesting. The three tests are as follows:
1. Can I easily manipulate into my bag without ruining it.
2. How much weight would it add to my pack?
3. Is it worth packing, unpacking, and repacking a good 50 times?
If the answer is "No" to any of these questions, then I walk away. And I have walked away from some great bargains on a lot of interesting and unique stuff that, well to be honest, 30 minutes later I'm thrilled I did not buy. Feel free to borrow my system anytime ladies, especially when packing for trips ... Do you really need 12 different pairs of shoes for a weekend in the desert?
Hit up the hostel and kick it in the pool with Andy, Chris, Tristan and Airlie. After a few hours we all go our separate ways, Tristan and I off to dinner at Tavern, where the BBQ beef is amazing. Both of us are craving dessert so we hit up the Blue Pumpkin and splurge on some banana splits.
We get talked into a $3 fish foot massage at the station next to Blue Pumpkin. Yeah, a fish foot massage. First saw this in Bali and then a few other locations around South East Asia, but there are so many of them here. Here's the concept, they have hundreds of these special kind of fish that eat dead skin, put them in a reinforced kiddie pool, and let people dangle their feet in the pool for 20 minutes at a time. It sounds weird, but for $3 I have to give it a go. Not gonna lie, it's a strange sensation, tickles a bit, not sure if it actually works or is just a gimmick, but afterwards, my feet feel pretty good. Worth it.
Head back to the hostel, this time I'm not missing my bus, play a few games of billiards and then it's time for me to hit the hay.
Nite nite Blogstars! Peace via the iPhone Blogger.
Pick up my failed thumb drive, grab Tristan, head out the door, arrive at the "tech" store that locked me out last night, my plight will be known! Different person behind the counter, no worries, explain my issue, he tests it ... same message, "reformat drive d". He reformats it, puts a few small files on, removes the drive, reinserts, it works. "It works, see?" Yeah, I think it's an issue when you put over 3GB of information on it. "It works, see?" I know, but again, you only put a MB on the drive, it happens when you go over 3GB. "It works, see?" Yo, R2D2 listen, you must have many more files on it, 3 or 4GBs not 3 or 4MBs. Understand? "Yes, try on another computer." No. Proceeds to nearby laptop, drive still works with his 4MBs of info on it, I'm done explaining. I don't care, I don't trust it, either give me my money back or upgrade me to the SanDisk, those are the only two options. After 10 minutes of language barrier confusion, he agrees to the SanDisk option, for an additional $3. I would of paid $5 to kill that conversation earlier. As we exit, we see him trying to carefully return the bunk drive into it's original packaging ...
Spent the afternoon at the Blue Pumpkin, a bakery-cafe-coffee shop concept. They excel at coffee and shakes, but steer clear of the burgers. It quickly becomes my favorite stomping ground with the upstairs lounge being home to aircon, wifi, and 5 foot deep couches that act more like beds. Kick my shoes off, Tristan follows suit, we eat we drink, its good. Tristan heads back, I jump on the iphone, spend a good 4 hours lounging, drinking shakes, and catching up on my emails, and all for about $4, it's a rough life.
Return back to the hostel via the central market. If you want it, that's the place to go. Nothing's real, nothing's as cheap as you would expect, but the variety of options and expanse of space is huge. Leave with empty hands, finding nothing I wanted to lug around for a few months. That's just one of my tests for buying any item, no matter how shiny or interesting. The three tests are as follows:
1. Can I easily manipulate into my bag without ruining it.
2. How much weight would it add to my pack?
3. Is it worth packing, unpacking, and repacking a good 50 times?
If the answer is "No" to any of these questions, then I walk away. And I have walked away from some great bargains on a lot of interesting and unique stuff that, well to be honest, 30 minutes later I'm thrilled I did not buy. Feel free to borrow my system anytime ladies, especially when packing for trips ... Do you really need 12 different pairs of shoes for a weekend in the desert?
Hit up the hostel and kick it in the pool with Andy, Chris, Tristan and Airlie. After a few hours we all go our separate ways, Tristan and I off to dinner at Tavern, where the BBQ beef is amazing. Both of us are craving dessert so we hit up the Blue Pumpkin and splurge on some banana splits.
We get talked into a $3 fish foot massage at the station next to Blue Pumpkin. Yeah, a fish foot massage. First saw this in Bali and then a few other locations around South East Asia, but there are so many of them here. Here's the concept, they have hundreds of these special kind of fish that eat dead skin, put them in a reinforced kiddie pool, and let people dangle their feet in the pool for 20 minutes at a time. It sounds weird, but for $3 I have to give it a go. Not gonna lie, it's a strange sensation, tickles a bit, not sure if it actually works or is just a gimmick, but afterwards, my feet feel pretty good. Worth it.
Head back to the hostel, this time I'm not missing my bus, play a few games of billiards and then it's time for me to hit the hay.
Nite nite Blogstars! Peace via the iPhone Blogger.
Day 65: Lost my photos yet again.
Wake up at 7am to watch the A&M/KU game on my iPhone (read that to mean if the the wifi cooperates, I get a play by play update from ESPN every 30 seconds). We were up at half, up by 9 in the second, things are looking good. Out of nowhere, Aggies get in a fight with the basket, decide it's not our friend, 8 minutes later and a 21-2 run by Kansas, we're down by 15 and lose, Gig'em Ags. Needless to say, no Big 12 Tourney championship this year, but here's to hoping we get a solid seed in the big tourney.
Head off to breakfast, and as any world explorer does when wanting to experience the culture, order a bacon cheeseburger, a rather disappointing one at that. It's Cambodia, what was I expecting?
I've been in need of a thumb drive toffee up some space on my camera, find a corner technology store that looks legit enough. For 4GB I can either pick a familiar brand, SanDisk, for $18 or a Chinese brand called Transcenda for $15, I regretfully chose the cheaper brand. Return to the hostel and start the transfer of many priceless pics from my card onto the drive. Everything is going smashingly, delete the pics as I do the transfer, so as not to waste space. I remove the drive properly via the annoying windows protocol. Place the thumb drive back into the computer to check my pics. Window pops up, "Please format drive". What?! That's weird. Wonder what drive it's referring to? I remove it, reinsert, same message. Sweat starts to trickle down my brow, blood pressure spiking. I calmly walk over to the computer closet, try one of their computers, same message. Worry and anger percolate. What are my options?
Spend the next 6 hours running a recovery program on my camera card recovering pieces of photos and elements of what once was my pictures. I reformat, reload pictures on the same drive, take it out, reinsert, same message. Oh crap, I think I might have been duped into buying a fake drive.
Take the faulty junk drive back to the shop to raise cain, the doors are closed, angled iron grating stretching the span, secured by an over sized padlock. Light peaking out from back room, reach through the grating, bang on the glass, no answer. Inquire at the neighboring store, looks like the two might be connected via the back room, Hello - are they in? I see a light on? They sold me a bad drive. "No, they leave. You buy drive here." Of course they did, and no way. Tomorrow I leave at 6am on a bus to Phnom Pehn, kicking myself I did not try and return it earlier. It's really not even the $15 as much as the principle, and I'm ticked if they sold me a fake drive ... and there's a rare chance they are unaware and need to know ... Ok and $15 goes a long way in Cambodia, so it is a bit about the $15.
My only consolation, when I return from the store-lockout, the hostel has arranged a pub crawl in my honor. Ok, maybe it's not in my honor, but it coincides with a day I definitely need a distraction, so yeah, it's for me. About 15 to 20 of us made the rounds, end up hitting about 4 bars, most having special deals, most of which I avoided. Last stop, run into two different sets of Koh Phi Phi friends, one set in good condition, the other in "a condition". On my way out, the latter hands me two different love notes for two different girls in Vang Vieng, Laos ... which if you think about it, makes perfect sense. Why wouldn't those particular girls from Canada and Sweden not still be there in 3 weeks when I arrive?
Return to the hostel by 2am with a few of my fellow hostelites. My bus pick up is 6am ... there is a fair chance I'm missing it, just saying.
Nite nite Bloggerville from your friendly iPhone Blogger.
Head off to breakfast, and as any world explorer does when wanting to experience the culture, order a bacon cheeseburger, a rather disappointing one at that. It's Cambodia, what was I expecting?
I've been in need of a thumb drive toffee up some space on my camera, find a corner technology store that looks legit enough. For 4GB I can either pick a familiar brand, SanDisk, for $18 or a Chinese brand called Transcenda for $15, I regretfully chose the cheaper brand. Return to the hostel and start the transfer of many priceless pics from my card onto the drive. Everything is going smashingly, delete the pics as I do the transfer, so as not to waste space. I remove the drive properly via the annoying windows protocol. Place the thumb drive back into the computer to check my pics. Window pops up, "Please format drive". What?! That's weird. Wonder what drive it's referring to? I remove it, reinsert, same message. Sweat starts to trickle down my brow, blood pressure spiking. I calmly walk over to the computer closet, try one of their computers, same message. Worry and anger percolate. What are my options?
Spend the next 6 hours running a recovery program on my camera card recovering pieces of photos and elements of what once was my pictures. I reformat, reload pictures on the same drive, take it out, reinsert, same message. Oh crap, I think I might have been duped into buying a fake drive.
Take the faulty junk drive back to the shop to raise cain, the doors are closed, angled iron grating stretching the span, secured by an over sized padlock. Light peaking out from back room, reach through the grating, bang on the glass, no answer. Inquire at the neighboring store, looks like the two might be connected via the back room, Hello - are they in? I see a light on? They sold me a bad drive. "No, they leave. You buy drive here." Of course they did, and no way. Tomorrow I leave at 6am on a bus to Phnom Pehn, kicking myself I did not try and return it earlier. It's really not even the $15 as much as the principle, and I'm ticked if they sold me a fake drive ... and there's a rare chance they are unaware and need to know ... Ok and $15 goes a long way in Cambodia, so it is a bit about the $15.
My only consolation, when I return from the store-lockout, the hostel has arranged a pub crawl in my honor. Ok, maybe it's not in my honor, but it coincides with a day I definitely need a distraction, so yeah, it's for me. About 15 to 20 of us made the rounds, end up hitting about 4 bars, most having special deals, most of which I avoided. Last stop, run into two different sets of Koh Phi Phi friends, one set in good condition, the other in "a condition". On my way out, the latter hands me two different love notes for two different girls in Vang Vieng, Laos ... which if you think about it, makes perfect sense. Why wouldn't those particular girls from Canada and Sweden not still be there in 3 weeks when I arrive?
Return to the hostel by 2am with a few of my fellow hostelites. My bus pick up is 6am ... there is a fair chance I'm missing it, just saying.
Nite nite Bloggerville from your friendly iPhone Blogger.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Day 64: Ever heard of Angkor Wat?
Awake at 4:30am to the sound of a torpedo alarm, thank you iPhone. Try to process where I am, how high off the ground my mattress lies, and why I'm up so early ... Oh yeah, it's Ancient Wonder of the World day! Climb down 200 feet of ladder, touch ground, pillage my bags for my camera, ATM card, and mossi spray. Lather myself in Deep Off with deet, make sure Shannon is moving, and head out to catch the Aggie game update on my iPhone. 28 seconds left in the second, we're up 68-62 to Nebraska who had just come off an upset win against a fairly good Missouri. Shannon appears, I feel good enough about the score, we run down to our awaiting Tuk Tuk, and we're off.
Side note: for those unaware, a tuk tuk is probably my favorite form of transportation. Basically it is a carriage attached to a motorbike with proper roof, bench seats with backs, no windows or walls on any side, just a few railings. You feel completely exposed to all the elements, feel the dust on your face, wind through your hair, every smell tickling your nose. And for $15usd, you can have the driver take you and your friends from all over the Angkor temples from sun up to sun down - brilliant
First stop is the ATM, I'm flat out of cash and bartering works better when you have a means to barter with. First ATM, slide card in, go through the pin and cash part, screen flashes, "transaction complete", no money has appeared. What? I take my card, look at the camera on the machine, show I received nothing, not sure what I need to do. Hustle back to tuk tuk. Can you take me to another ATM? That one said transaction complete, gave me back my card, but no cash. We hit up ANZ Royal, put my card in, accept the exorbitant charge, more on that in a moment, proceed through everything, transaction complete, card spit out, no cash. What the what? Pull out my card, about to curse, catch the screen change, "After transaction complete, please take your cash." I look down, the ATM is spitting out my money. Holy crap, tuk tuk, back to the other ATM, andele, andele! Still dark out, still no one stirring, and still no cash at the ATM. Blurgh, did the machine rip me off, did someone see me walk off without the cash and steal my money, their fault, my fault, stupid design fault? Yes.
Now onto a few thoughts about the banks. The ANZ Royal ATM has a $4 surcharge, my bank charges me $3, combined it's costs me $7 per transaction - highway robbery! Banks and ATM's have a great scam going on. Besides the occasionally thievery of my cash, aka first ATM, they give you a poor exchange rate making money on the difference and then they zap you with fees, bastards! But you are at their mercy, so you suck it up, take it on the chin and focus on how to spend that cash to make it worthwhile.
Head down a dusty, pothole strewn, poorly lit alley, pick up Tristan, then it's off to Angkor for sunrise. Stop by the ticket station, pay $20usd each and continue on the journey. We are now in a forest, the road lit up by all the tuk tuks and buses heading to the same destination. We round a corner and catch our first glimpse of Angkor Wat. The moat, which encircles the entire compound is 2 football fields wide, steaming in the brisk morning air, adding an air of mystique to the mighty stone walls encasing this temple. Round the next corner, pull up to the steps leading to the enormous stone bridge spanning the width of the moat. We reach the first building, supposing that this is Angkor, with it's grandeur, scale, detailed architecture. It's not, it's merely the gatehouse leading to what lies ahead. Follow the crowds, 2 corridors later exit the other side, throngs of people scattered everywhere on the walls, steps, lawn, positioned for the sunrise. We look out, and there it is, beautiful Angkor Wat. The sheer magnitude and scope make it hard to describe, hard to imagine, hard to take in. Breathtaking, overwhelming, intriguing, simply unbelievable. The bridge continues out the gatehouse a good 500m, spanning beautiful lush fields of green, several other large structures rest on either side of the bridge, on their own anywhere else seen as magnificent, here seeming small and secondary. We begin to make the walk, hints of a sunrise peaking from the east.
Half way across the bridge, just at the crossroads of the two large minor structures, small Cambodian man pops up out of nowhere. "You want breakfast? I give you good spot for sunrise, in front of lake." I am hungry, Tristan, Shannon? Ok, let's see this great spot for sunrise. 5 minutes later we have front row seats on the north side of the bridge, directly in front of a lake facing east to Angkor Wat, it's reflection glistening off the water.
Breakfast was $2 or $3usd. And yeah, that is how it was quoted. The Cambodian people have a currency, it's called Riel and it's about 4200 Riel to $1usd. However, everything is quoted in US dollars. On menus, for Internet, in the markets, literally everything is quoted in good ole American dollars. They sincerely prefer it and it simplifies all the calculations of different currencies in my head, baht, ringgit, sing, rupiah, Riel, etc.
Breakfast was a baguette, tomato onion omelet, and a banana milkshake. Our plastic chairs were pulled right up to the edge of the mud that led to the lake, front row joes we are. And here it comes. At first, light infuses the air, everything becomes more clear, more detailed, more visible. We wait, knowing the bright yellow orb is to make it's appearance any moment. And there it is, glistening between the towers and the turrets, shimmering off the lake. Majestic, magical, magnificent ... What other M word would work here, um ... Momentous - hmm, scratch the last descriptor. Basically, it was cool. It rose, we took a thousand pics, and then we proceeded to enter the mammoth of a structure. So much detail, so much workmanship in every cavernous room. An hour later, on the second tier we find that just 2 weeks ago they opened the 3rd level to explore.
By level or tier, I'm speaking about climbing maybe 50 feet at almost 90 degrees on tiny steps maybe 3 or 4 inches deep, a minimum of 12 inches high each, anywhere from 2 to 10 feet wide in parts. These are the kind of climbing that requires use of both feet and hands. This is not a feature specific to Angkor Wat either, all temple designers of this time thought it wise to build this way, OSHA back home would be having a fit.
Now I could go on for pages about each of the temples, we saw 9 or 10 in all. Each amazing and spectacular in it's own right, but to save both you and I some time, I will highlight my 3 favorites. I've already mentioned in some detail about Angkor Wat, take a gander at google images for more insight. Massive and magnificent does not do it justice. The other two in no particular order is Ta Prohm and Angkor Thom's Bayon.
Angkor Thom was actually a 6.2 mile gated city with several temples inside, one being Bayon. Built in the late 12th century, It's said to have had over a million occupants at its peak, when London was a bustling town of 50,000. All residential or commercial structures within had to be made of wood because only the gods were worthy of stone. Thus all that remains are wide open spaces within the mighty walls and a few stoic temples.
Bayon is famous for having 54 gothic towers each with four faces of the God Avalokitthingamajiggy - Yeah that one, each facing the four primary directions of north, south, east, and west. Unlike Angkor Wat which was created with vast corridors and impressive chambers, Bayon was made of small corridors and multiple levels. It's the kind of temple you want to play hide-n-seek with all of it's hidden chambers and multiple passage ways spurring off of each room. We did this temple last, so not many people were in or on it, making the experience even more personal and intimate.
Ta Prohm is famous not for height, like the other two which have multiple tiers stretching hundreds of feet into the air, but for being primarily one level with giant trees and roots growing out of it. It is comprised of multiple quadrants broken into multiple rooms and passage ways as well. Crumbling piles of large stones caving in corridors and creating shells of walls that once existed add to the mysterious and mystical nature of Ta Prohm.
As we neared sunset, all the tourists clamoring for Mt Meru, the temple you view the sun setting over Angkor Wat from, Shannon, Tristan and I made an executive decision. We had heard from multiple people that at Mt Meru you fight hoards of people heading up a long and dusty path, attempt to find a decent seat, doubtful if nor an hour early, and then before the sun actually set, you are asked to make your way back to the main road. No thank you. Instead, we made our way to the massive 66 foot tall southern gate to Angkor Thom. Resting over the causeway on the bridge, peering through the sculptures of god faces, we watch the sun set perfectly in line with the moat, brilliant.
We take the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap Hostel, clean up, eat, and veg, taking in the full magnitude of the day we had. It's time for rest, I need the shuteye.
Nite nite via the iPhone Blogger
Side note: for those unaware, a tuk tuk is probably my favorite form of transportation. Basically it is a carriage attached to a motorbike with proper roof, bench seats with backs, no windows or walls on any side, just a few railings. You feel completely exposed to all the elements, feel the dust on your face, wind through your hair, every smell tickling your nose. And for $15usd, you can have the driver take you and your friends from all over the Angkor temples from sun up to sun down - brilliant
First stop is the ATM, I'm flat out of cash and bartering works better when you have a means to barter with. First ATM, slide card in, go through the pin and cash part, screen flashes, "transaction complete", no money has appeared. What? I take my card, look at the camera on the machine, show I received nothing, not sure what I need to do. Hustle back to tuk tuk. Can you take me to another ATM? That one said transaction complete, gave me back my card, but no cash. We hit up ANZ Royal, put my card in, accept the exorbitant charge, more on that in a moment, proceed through everything, transaction complete, card spit out, no cash. What the what? Pull out my card, about to curse, catch the screen change, "After transaction complete, please take your cash." I look down, the ATM is spitting out my money. Holy crap, tuk tuk, back to the other ATM, andele, andele! Still dark out, still no one stirring, and still no cash at the ATM. Blurgh, did the machine rip me off, did someone see me walk off without the cash and steal my money, their fault, my fault, stupid design fault? Yes.
Now onto a few thoughts about the banks. The ANZ Royal ATM has a $4 surcharge, my bank charges me $3, combined it's costs me $7 per transaction - highway robbery! Banks and ATM's have a great scam going on. Besides the occasionally thievery of my cash, aka first ATM, they give you a poor exchange rate making money on the difference and then they zap you with fees, bastards! But you are at their mercy, so you suck it up, take it on the chin and focus on how to spend that cash to make it worthwhile.
Head down a dusty, pothole strewn, poorly lit alley, pick up Tristan, then it's off to Angkor for sunrise. Stop by the ticket station, pay $20usd each and continue on the journey. We are now in a forest, the road lit up by all the tuk tuks and buses heading to the same destination. We round a corner and catch our first glimpse of Angkor Wat. The moat, which encircles the entire compound is 2 football fields wide, steaming in the brisk morning air, adding an air of mystique to the mighty stone walls encasing this temple. Round the next corner, pull up to the steps leading to the enormous stone bridge spanning the width of the moat. We reach the first building, supposing that this is Angkor, with it's grandeur, scale, detailed architecture. It's not, it's merely the gatehouse leading to what lies ahead. Follow the crowds, 2 corridors later exit the other side, throngs of people scattered everywhere on the walls, steps, lawn, positioned for the sunrise. We look out, and there it is, beautiful Angkor Wat. The sheer magnitude and scope make it hard to describe, hard to imagine, hard to take in. Breathtaking, overwhelming, intriguing, simply unbelievable. The bridge continues out the gatehouse a good 500m, spanning beautiful lush fields of green, several other large structures rest on either side of the bridge, on their own anywhere else seen as magnificent, here seeming small and secondary. We begin to make the walk, hints of a sunrise peaking from the east.
Half way across the bridge, just at the crossroads of the two large minor structures, small Cambodian man pops up out of nowhere. "You want breakfast? I give you good spot for sunrise, in front of lake." I am hungry, Tristan, Shannon? Ok, let's see this great spot for sunrise. 5 minutes later we have front row seats on the north side of the bridge, directly in front of a lake facing east to Angkor Wat, it's reflection glistening off the water.
Breakfast was $2 or $3usd. And yeah, that is how it was quoted. The Cambodian people have a currency, it's called Riel and it's about 4200 Riel to $1usd. However, everything is quoted in US dollars. On menus, for Internet, in the markets, literally everything is quoted in good ole American dollars. They sincerely prefer it and it simplifies all the calculations of different currencies in my head, baht, ringgit, sing, rupiah, Riel, etc.
Breakfast was a baguette, tomato onion omelet, and a banana milkshake. Our plastic chairs were pulled right up to the edge of the mud that led to the lake, front row joes we are. And here it comes. At first, light infuses the air, everything becomes more clear, more detailed, more visible. We wait, knowing the bright yellow orb is to make it's appearance any moment. And there it is, glistening between the towers and the turrets, shimmering off the lake. Majestic, magical, magnificent ... What other M word would work here, um ... Momentous - hmm, scratch the last descriptor. Basically, it was cool. It rose, we took a thousand pics, and then we proceeded to enter the mammoth of a structure. So much detail, so much workmanship in every cavernous room. An hour later, on the second tier we find that just 2 weeks ago they opened the 3rd level to explore.
By level or tier, I'm speaking about climbing maybe 50 feet at almost 90 degrees on tiny steps maybe 3 or 4 inches deep, a minimum of 12 inches high each, anywhere from 2 to 10 feet wide in parts. These are the kind of climbing that requires use of both feet and hands. This is not a feature specific to Angkor Wat either, all temple designers of this time thought it wise to build this way, OSHA back home would be having a fit.
Now I could go on for pages about each of the temples, we saw 9 or 10 in all. Each amazing and spectacular in it's own right, but to save both you and I some time, I will highlight my 3 favorites. I've already mentioned in some detail about Angkor Wat, take a gander at google images for more insight. Massive and magnificent does not do it justice. The other two in no particular order is Ta Prohm and Angkor Thom's Bayon.
Angkor Thom was actually a 6.2 mile gated city with several temples inside, one being Bayon. Built in the late 12th century, It's said to have had over a million occupants at its peak, when London was a bustling town of 50,000. All residential or commercial structures within had to be made of wood because only the gods were worthy of stone. Thus all that remains are wide open spaces within the mighty walls and a few stoic temples.
Bayon is famous for having 54 gothic towers each with four faces of the God Avalokitthingamajiggy - Yeah that one, each facing the four primary directions of north, south, east, and west. Unlike Angkor Wat which was created with vast corridors and impressive chambers, Bayon was made of small corridors and multiple levels. It's the kind of temple you want to play hide-n-seek with all of it's hidden chambers and multiple passage ways spurring off of each room. We did this temple last, so not many people were in or on it, making the experience even more personal and intimate.
Ta Prohm is famous not for height, like the other two which have multiple tiers stretching hundreds of feet into the air, but for being primarily one level with giant trees and roots growing out of it. It is comprised of multiple quadrants broken into multiple rooms and passage ways as well. Crumbling piles of large stones caving in corridors and creating shells of walls that once existed add to the mysterious and mystical nature of Ta Prohm.
As we neared sunset, all the tourists clamoring for Mt Meru, the temple you view the sun setting over Angkor Wat from, Shannon, Tristan and I made an executive decision. We had heard from multiple people that at Mt Meru you fight hoards of people heading up a long and dusty path, attempt to find a decent seat, doubtful if nor an hour early, and then before the sun actually set, you are asked to make your way back to the main road. No thank you. Instead, we made our way to the massive 66 foot tall southern gate to Angkor Thom. Resting over the causeway on the bridge, peering through the sculptures of god faces, we watch the sun set perfectly in line with the moat, brilliant.
We take the tuk tuk back to Siem Reap Hostel, clean up, eat, and veg, taking in the full magnitude of the day we had. It's time for rest, I need the shuteye.
Nite nite via the iPhone Blogger
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Day 63: Still traveling ... 30 hours later - Cambodia
Wake up on bus ... "Bangkok". No one moves. This can't be it, it's only 4:30am, barely any lights on the road, and nothing says Khosan Rd. "Get off, we here, Bangkok" ... We look around, no one moves, Thai man comes up, "Bangkok, you get off". Once we realize all our bags are being thrown on the ground outside the bus, we hustle up and depart. I, still groggy from my friend, Mr. Ambien, grab my luggage, and the two Irish lads I befriended in the Ferry station and hail a tuk tuk. They tried charging 200 baht, but with mad negotiating skills I got it down to 40baht for the whole group, pat myself on the back. We take off, pull up to the light 300 yards down the road, take a left, another 100yards and he stops the cab. "Khosan Road". Wait, what? We paid 40 baht for you to take us around the corner .. I should of held out for 20 baht. Dagnabbit.
Proceed down Khosan Road towards the police station where the minibus is picking us up at 7, we have 2+ hours to burn, only things open are sad looking bars and street vendors selling liquor or women. 10 seconds down the road, we hear a clatter from behind us, turn just in time to see a Thai guy run up to some whitey and pop him square in the jaw, down he went. 2 of his mates then throw punches at the Thai and up went the riot mentality. Within a few seconds 10 to 20 people were swinging fists, plastic chairs, 2x4s, anything they could grab. We missed the action by moments and were slowly moving away while watching this train wreck. It's what can happen late at night when people are drunk and stupid and wheeling too much testosterone. I feel like this about fights in general, I get it on the playground when you are not mature or emotionally aware enough to use your words, but as grown men ... Come on now. It's funny because I have met so many Brits on this trip who have conveyed this same sentiment. They have numerous friends back in the UK who live to get drunk on weekends and swing their fists. Maybe it makes them feel alive and is the one thing they can control in their life? Maybe it's the one outlet for the rage and frustration of a nine to five without a healthy outlet like writing or the gym. Regardless, I like to think man can do and be better than that, maybe I'm just naive. On with Khosan Road. We see Starbucks on the road, get excited, only to find it closed and unable to find an "hours of operation" schedule. We press on, make it to the steps of the police station, our pick up spot, but it's only 5:15am - time to explore.
Having been down Khosan Road, we explore the surrounding streets and find a hotel/restaurant/lobby that was open. Inside we are able to use the Internet for 10 baht/15 min, essentially, $1/45 minutes, cheap cheap. Only caveat, you cannot plug cameras or thumb drives into the computer, so internet only. Spend a good 45 touching base with people, answering emails, checking on Big 12 Tourney info. Then it was back to the Khosan Police station to await our pick up and find out if we are entered into the minibus lottery or have a coach bus ... Please be a coach, please be a coach, please be a coach ...
It's not a coach. It's a mid-level minibus, half full which means I get to ride bitch again. Excuse my French, but that's what it's called where I come from, and with good reason. Stuck in a row of 4, on both sides of me are full size western men, threaten to cuddle with the Canadian to my right ... that's twice in one trip, becoming a theme me thinks. The cloth seats are in fair condition, the roof is extra tall, AC works well ... Other than my personal position, it's a winner.
Off we go, ask how many hours, the driver holds up 1 finger. One hour to Cambodia? Sweet! Lean to my right, you believe that? Shannon, the guy to my right who happens to be from CO, looks at me and nods, "no way". Me either. 2 hours later while in the midst of a healthy conversation with Shannon, the driver turns and shushes us. Hold up, it's after 9am, sun is up, several people are napping but others are awake ... Did we just get shushed? Shannon, replies, "not possible", just as the driver turns around and gives us the finger over mouth treatment ... again.
He must be smoking funny weeds if he thinks sophomoric moves like that will be respected. At 3am, I'd get it, 10pm, sure, even 8am. But it's past 9, sun is blazing in all windows, and I highly doubt my intelligent banter about politics and movies would compete with the buses constant honking, breaking, and bouncing. We already were at a low volume, maybe 3 out of 10, lowered it to a 2, and continued on.
Arrive near the border some 3 hours later, it's nearly noon. We are at a transpo station which means get ready for the up-sell. Instructed to get our visas with them, it's 1200 baht. Seems high, but they wouldn't lie, would they? Add on 100 baht for 2 pictures and 100 baht for a rush through the visa line, 10 minutes they say, and my total bill comes to 1400 baht, or $45. Seems fair enough, until we proceed to the Cambodia Visa station, after waiting an hour to exit Thailand, and wait another hour and 15 minutes in the 10 minute rush line, to find out that the visa comes at a cost of 700baht. Scammed again, but what can you do, ask for a refund? Lick your wounds press on.
Now it's off to the cab dispatch, mind you we're carrying our heavy travel packs the entire way, about 2 miles in the 95 degree heat. We each paid $10 at the transpo station for an upgrade to a roomy air conditioned late model cab, the result is them jamming 4 of us into a late 90's model Toyota Camry, I sitting bitch once again. Another joyful theme from this leg of my journey. Remember, it started with waiting, then with cuddling complete strangers, and now it's me sitting bitch in every vehicle possible. Good thing its only 2 1/2 hours by cab on suspect roads. As we enter the car, the "guide" from the transpo center asks for a tip, and I more than willingly give him one. Here's a tip, why don't you and your cohort stop lying and scamming us poor travelers, making us pay double for the visa, charging fees for a rush service you did not provide, all the whilst expecting a tip you have already collected in the form of 700 baht. He stares, thinks about it, then says, "for my family, I am hungry". Woah, you just screwed me and now you want me to tip you for doing that, you are crazy, no tip! Shut the door, Shannon, Tristan (a Canadian I met on the minibus), an I stick firmly to our guns, front seat older gentleman caves. He gets in, "you're right, but he has a family to feed." You realize you perpetuate the problem when you not only condone but tip their bad behavior. Silence.
We get near Siem Reap and the taxi drops us off at yet another transpo station ... But of course. This one is just a dirt patch with a bunch of tuk tuks. Tristan had already secured his lodging, Palm Garden Guesthouse. I have convinced Shannon to join me at Siem Reap Hostel, a suggestion from Rollo who had been there just weeks before. Now you must have caught on by this point, there's always a catch. Only two can fit on a tuk tuk, thus Shannon and I on one, but they attempt to put Tristan on the back of a moped. Not ok. I stop them as they are securing the bag on the bike. Dude, that's not gonna work. He goes on a tuk tuk too. We all paid the same, and it was way too much, he gets a tuk tuk. "Uh, he goes on motorbike, he is only one." I done with this, motorbike is not an option. Put him on a tuk tuk now. "Ok, he goes on tuk tuk, you go sir". We don't leave until we see him on one. And so we wait as they move his stuff onto another tuk tuk.
Another guy with relatively good English jumps on the front of our tuk tuk facing us ... And here is the up-sell. "What are you doing in Siem Reap?" Uh, we came to watch the stagnant water in the river sit still and cause algae build up ... He knows exactly why we are there. But he's nice, made sure Tristan had a tuk tuk, so we listen. By the time we arrive, we have scheduled a tuk tuk for the 3 of us or $15 to pick us up at 5am, get us to Angkor Wat by sunrise, and stay with us through sundown. Initially he tried to get more for 3 people and more for the whole day, but I hold firm, willing to find other transportation. We will see them him at 5am.
Siem Reap Hostel is surprisingly cool. Rollo did well with this suggestion. It had a bar, and a lounging area, internet room, free wifi, a swimming pool, and 2 open air tv rooms. The dorms were nice as well, 3 sets of bunk beds, cold AC, real mattresses. The only drawback, the bunk beds were built solid and sturdy, but the top bunks were literally 7 feet off the ground. Ceilings were 12 feet high, so not a problem. But climbing up and down is a bit harrowing and the side railing is at the same level as the mattress, so if you're a "sleep roller", it's a long fall.
Bags are in, valuables are secure, I'm famished, email Tristan a location and off we go into Siem Reap proper. Pub Street, the major thoroughfare in Siem Reap, varied selection of cuisine, so excited. On the corner, literally on the sidewalk, no covering, we sit at make shift tables, plastic chairs, order authentic Cambodian food, spend $2 each, and head off to explore. 10 minutes later, seen most the town, food is settling, sleep is catching up with us. Tuk tuk is coming at 5am, time to head back and hit the hay, only 7 hours until pick up.
Alright, nite nite via the iPhone Blogger.
Proceed down Khosan Road towards the police station where the minibus is picking us up at 7, we have 2+ hours to burn, only things open are sad looking bars and street vendors selling liquor or women. 10 seconds down the road, we hear a clatter from behind us, turn just in time to see a Thai guy run up to some whitey and pop him square in the jaw, down he went. 2 of his mates then throw punches at the Thai and up went the riot mentality. Within a few seconds 10 to 20 people were swinging fists, plastic chairs, 2x4s, anything they could grab. We missed the action by moments and were slowly moving away while watching this train wreck. It's what can happen late at night when people are drunk and stupid and wheeling too much testosterone. I feel like this about fights in general, I get it on the playground when you are not mature or emotionally aware enough to use your words, but as grown men ... Come on now. It's funny because I have met so many Brits on this trip who have conveyed this same sentiment. They have numerous friends back in the UK who live to get drunk on weekends and swing their fists. Maybe it makes them feel alive and is the one thing they can control in their life? Maybe it's the one outlet for the rage and frustration of a nine to five without a healthy outlet like writing or the gym. Regardless, I like to think man can do and be better than that, maybe I'm just naive. On with Khosan Road. We see Starbucks on the road, get excited, only to find it closed and unable to find an "hours of operation" schedule. We press on, make it to the steps of the police station, our pick up spot, but it's only 5:15am - time to explore.
Having been down Khosan Road, we explore the surrounding streets and find a hotel/restaurant/lobby that was open. Inside we are able to use the Internet for 10 baht/15 min, essentially, $1/45 minutes, cheap cheap. Only caveat, you cannot plug cameras or thumb drives into the computer, so internet only. Spend a good 45 touching base with people, answering emails, checking on Big 12 Tourney info. Then it was back to the Khosan Police station to await our pick up and find out if we are entered into the minibus lottery or have a coach bus ... Please be a coach, please be a coach, please be a coach ...
It's not a coach. It's a mid-level minibus, half full which means I get to ride bitch again. Excuse my French, but that's what it's called where I come from, and with good reason. Stuck in a row of 4, on both sides of me are full size western men, threaten to cuddle with the Canadian to my right ... that's twice in one trip, becoming a theme me thinks. The cloth seats are in fair condition, the roof is extra tall, AC works well ... Other than my personal position, it's a winner.
Off we go, ask how many hours, the driver holds up 1 finger. One hour to Cambodia? Sweet! Lean to my right, you believe that? Shannon, the guy to my right who happens to be from CO, looks at me and nods, "no way". Me either. 2 hours later while in the midst of a healthy conversation with Shannon, the driver turns and shushes us. Hold up, it's after 9am, sun is up, several people are napping but others are awake ... Did we just get shushed? Shannon, replies, "not possible", just as the driver turns around and gives us the finger over mouth treatment ... again.
He must be smoking funny weeds if he thinks sophomoric moves like that will be respected. At 3am, I'd get it, 10pm, sure, even 8am. But it's past 9, sun is blazing in all windows, and I highly doubt my intelligent banter about politics and movies would compete with the buses constant honking, breaking, and bouncing. We already were at a low volume, maybe 3 out of 10, lowered it to a 2, and continued on.
Arrive near the border some 3 hours later, it's nearly noon. We are at a transpo station which means get ready for the up-sell. Instructed to get our visas with them, it's 1200 baht. Seems high, but they wouldn't lie, would they? Add on 100 baht for 2 pictures and 100 baht for a rush through the visa line, 10 minutes they say, and my total bill comes to 1400 baht, or $45. Seems fair enough, until we proceed to the Cambodia Visa station, after waiting an hour to exit Thailand, and wait another hour and 15 minutes in the 10 minute rush line, to find out that the visa comes at a cost of 700baht. Scammed again, but what can you do, ask for a refund? Lick your wounds press on.
Now it's off to the cab dispatch, mind you we're carrying our heavy travel packs the entire way, about 2 miles in the 95 degree heat. We each paid $10 at the transpo station for an upgrade to a roomy air conditioned late model cab, the result is them jamming 4 of us into a late 90's model Toyota Camry, I sitting bitch once again. Another joyful theme from this leg of my journey. Remember, it started with waiting, then with cuddling complete strangers, and now it's me sitting bitch in every vehicle possible. Good thing its only 2 1/2 hours by cab on suspect roads. As we enter the car, the "guide" from the transpo center asks for a tip, and I more than willingly give him one. Here's a tip, why don't you and your cohort stop lying and scamming us poor travelers, making us pay double for the visa, charging fees for a rush service you did not provide, all the whilst expecting a tip you have already collected in the form of 700 baht. He stares, thinks about it, then says, "for my family, I am hungry". Woah, you just screwed me and now you want me to tip you for doing that, you are crazy, no tip! Shut the door, Shannon, Tristan (a Canadian I met on the minibus), an I stick firmly to our guns, front seat older gentleman caves. He gets in, "you're right, but he has a family to feed." You realize you perpetuate the problem when you not only condone but tip their bad behavior. Silence.
We get near Siem Reap and the taxi drops us off at yet another transpo station ... But of course. This one is just a dirt patch with a bunch of tuk tuks. Tristan had already secured his lodging, Palm Garden Guesthouse. I have convinced Shannon to join me at Siem Reap Hostel, a suggestion from Rollo who had been there just weeks before. Now you must have caught on by this point, there's always a catch. Only two can fit on a tuk tuk, thus Shannon and I on one, but they attempt to put Tristan on the back of a moped. Not ok. I stop them as they are securing the bag on the bike. Dude, that's not gonna work. He goes on a tuk tuk too. We all paid the same, and it was way too much, he gets a tuk tuk. "Uh, he goes on motorbike, he is only one." I done with this, motorbike is not an option. Put him on a tuk tuk now. "Ok, he goes on tuk tuk, you go sir". We don't leave until we see him on one. And so we wait as they move his stuff onto another tuk tuk.
Another guy with relatively good English jumps on the front of our tuk tuk facing us ... And here is the up-sell. "What are you doing in Siem Reap?" Uh, we came to watch the stagnant water in the river sit still and cause algae build up ... He knows exactly why we are there. But he's nice, made sure Tristan had a tuk tuk, so we listen. By the time we arrive, we have scheduled a tuk tuk for the 3 of us or $15 to pick us up at 5am, get us to Angkor Wat by sunrise, and stay with us through sundown. Initially he tried to get more for 3 people and more for the whole day, but I hold firm, willing to find other transportation. We will see them him at 5am.
Siem Reap Hostel is surprisingly cool. Rollo did well with this suggestion. It had a bar, and a lounging area, internet room, free wifi, a swimming pool, and 2 open air tv rooms. The dorms were nice as well, 3 sets of bunk beds, cold AC, real mattresses. The only drawback, the bunk beds were built solid and sturdy, but the top bunks were literally 7 feet off the ground. Ceilings were 12 feet high, so not a problem. But climbing up and down is a bit harrowing and the side railing is at the same level as the mattress, so if you're a "sleep roller", it's a long fall.
Bags are in, valuables are secure, I'm famished, email Tristan a location and off we go into Siem Reap proper. Pub Street, the major thoroughfare in Siem Reap, varied selection of cuisine, so excited. On the corner, literally on the sidewalk, no covering, we sit at make shift tables, plastic chairs, order authentic Cambodian food, spend $2 each, and head off to explore. 10 minutes later, seen most the town, food is settling, sleep is catching up with us. Tuk tuk is coming at 5am, time to head back and hit the hay, only 7 hours until pick up.
Alright, nite nite via the iPhone Blogger.
Day 62: Slug is hit by a motorbike and I'm off to Cambodia
Walk into the room at 5am to find Snake butt naked, in my bed ... what the what? Snake wake up! Yo snake, wake up - get out of my bed. Groggily he looks around, realizes he's in the buff in my bed, rolls over to go back to his. I spot his boxers on the ground, toss them at him, don't forget these. Apparently he thought it would be a gas to jump in my bed naked thinking I was 5 minutes behind the group when they passed me in the lobby. I was 30 minutes behind, he passed out, thus turning a funny joke into an awkward situation - and no Snake was not the 40 year old awkward bloke from earlier that night.
Awake at 11, we got checkout pushed back to noon, now wishing we had pushed for 2. We look around, somethings missing ... it's Slug. All of his stuff is here, but he never came home last night, hmm. I'm hungry, let's go eat, maybe he'll return before we get back. We head out, down the main road, towards our favorite eatery. Just before we arrive, who do we see, Slug making his way back to the resort. Exchange a few words, he still has to pack, we will see him shortly. Eat and return, to find Slug packed up but looking very somber. What's up Slug? "Right after I left you on the main road I was walking about when I heard someone yelling. I turned just in time to be clipped by this Thai guy on a motorbike, which then sent him onto the pavement and his head then hit the back tire of a passing truck. I thought he was dead, he had blood coming out of his ears and eyes. I was in shock, did not know what to do, a crowd gathered, I walked over by the gathered women, said what should I do? Do you need my info? He hit me, I was on the edge of the road, I promise. I thought they were going to arrest me or beat me up, but one woman came over and said he smelled of alcohol. He was drunk driving, it's not my fault, to go home. Another guy staying here at Coral also saw it all and said it was the Thai guys fault, that he would testify if need be. I just felt helpless and thought someone died, but he started to move and a truck came with stretcher, they put him on the truck and took him away. It was just so awful." I stand with mouth agape, unreal. So sorry bro, clearly was not your doing. The other guys enter, story repeated, now 4 other mouths wide open. Crazy.
Say my farewells to Max Brannan, Snake, Slug, Costa, and No-Nic as the taxi takes me off to the ferry. I paid 1400 baht yesterday for a ticket to Siem Reap, Cambodia with all transfers included. It begins with the taxi picking me up 5 minutes late, no biggie, then we drive maybe 500 meters to where I bought the ticket, and stop, "5 minutes". No reason why, the drivers goes inside, probably sits in the aircon and sips a cold one while I sit in the back bed of the pickup truck in 95 degree heat, sun pounding down ... Just waiting ... And waiting. Finally he jumps back in, no explanation, and we are off to the Songserm pier. They stamp my paperwork, tag a sticker on me, hand me some other paperwork, and it's off to another waiting area. I think this is becoming a theme. No worries, as long as I'm out by midnight tomorrow, I'm golden. Otherwise my visa expires and they charge me 500 baht per day over, about $20usd.
The 2:30 ferry leaves around 3, it's a slow one, meet Michko from NYC on the boat, and we chat it up until we nod off. We port around 6ish, walk to the main building and get in line for my bus ride. They give me bus 2, the 9pm one. Ok, so where is the bus station for pick up? "You wait here." a cold concrete building, with 4 tables 16 chairs, tile floors, and a good 100 people. They are serving fried rice and snacks inside, my only option to quench my hunger. 2 hours later, bus 1 comes, clears out most of the joint. Then th rains come, torrential downpours, high winds, and I think, I'm so glad I'm not on a boat right now. My British crew from Koh Tao all left tonight for Phuket and Phi Phi on the slow boat to Suratani. Suckas! 9:15 and our bus shows up as a second storm rolls through, perfect timing. We make a break for it in the rain, bags getting soaked, boarding the bus looking like wet dogs, wait, there's other people on here. Apparently, it's first stop was 4 hours back, we are the second pick up, all heading to Bangkok. I snagged the front seat next to a Chinese kid who clearly spoke no English. I told him to wake me if I squeeze him too tight, I tend to snuggle in my sleep. The humor was lost on him but not an Irish dude across the isle, Nigel. Asked the bus people what movie they'd be playing, none, it's too disturbing for those trying to sleep. It's not even 10pm, come on grandpa. Gave up, gave in, popped an ambien, reclined my seat, readied myself for 8 hours of bus sleep. At midnight, the bus people shook me, "you go eat". I'm not hungry, I'm sleeping. "We stop, you go eat." Ok already, a movie at 9:30 is disturbing but shaking a grown man out of heavy REM is not? Where am I? Enter the roadside food market, Not hungry enough for a meal, but now that you mention food. Grab a Magnum ice cream bar, chat with Nigel and head back to the bus. My Chinese seatmate is already situated, I again recline, shut my eyes, saw logs.
Nite nite from the iPhone blogger.
Awake at 11, we got checkout pushed back to noon, now wishing we had pushed for 2. We look around, somethings missing ... it's Slug. All of his stuff is here, but he never came home last night, hmm. I'm hungry, let's go eat, maybe he'll return before we get back. We head out, down the main road, towards our favorite eatery. Just before we arrive, who do we see, Slug making his way back to the resort. Exchange a few words, he still has to pack, we will see him shortly. Eat and return, to find Slug packed up but looking very somber. What's up Slug? "Right after I left you on the main road I was walking about when I heard someone yelling. I turned just in time to be clipped by this Thai guy on a motorbike, which then sent him onto the pavement and his head then hit the back tire of a passing truck. I thought he was dead, he had blood coming out of his ears and eyes. I was in shock, did not know what to do, a crowd gathered, I walked over by the gathered women, said what should I do? Do you need my info? He hit me, I was on the edge of the road, I promise. I thought they were going to arrest me or beat me up, but one woman came over and said he smelled of alcohol. He was drunk driving, it's not my fault, to go home. Another guy staying here at Coral also saw it all and said it was the Thai guys fault, that he would testify if need be. I just felt helpless and thought someone died, but he started to move and a truck came with stretcher, they put him on the truck and took him away. It was just so awful." I stand with mouth agape, unreal. So sorry bro, clearly was not your doing. The other guys enter, story repeated, now 4 other mouths wide open. Crazy.
Say my farewells to Max Brannan, Snake, Slug, Costa, and No-Nic as the taxi takes me off to the ferry. I paid 1400 baht yesterday for a ticket to Siem Reap, Cambodia with all transfers included. It begins with the taxi picking me up 5 minutes late, no biggie, then we drive maybe 500 meters to where I bought the ticket, and stop, "5 minutes". No reason why, the drivers goes inside, probably sits in the aircon and sips a cold one while I sit in the back bed of the pickup truck in 95 degree heat, sun pounding down ... Just waiting ... And waiting. Finally he jumps back in, no explanation, and we are off to the Songserm pier. They stamp my paperwork, tag a sticker on me, hand me some other paperwork, and it's off to another waiting area. I think this is becoming a theme. No worries, as long as I'm out by midnight tomorrow, I'm golden. Otherwise my visa expires and they charge me 500 baht per day over, about $20usd.
The 2:30 ferry leaves around 3, it's a slow one, meet Michko from NYC on the boat, and we chat it up until we nod off. We port around 6ish, walk to the main building and get in line for my bus ride. They give me bus 2, the 9pm one. Ok, so where is the bus station for pick up? "You wait here." a cold concrete building, with 4 tables 16 chairs, tile floors, and a good 100 people. They are serving fried rice and snacks inside, my only option to quench my hunger. 2 hours later, bus 1 comes, clears out most of the joint. Then th rains come, torrential downpours, high winds, and I think, I'm so glad I'm not on a boat right now. My British crew from Koh Tao all left tonight for Phuket and Phi Phi on the slow boat to Suratani. Suckas! 9:15 and our bus shows up as a second storm rolls through, perfect timing. We make a break for it in the rain, bags getting soaked, boarding the bus looking like wet dogs, wait, there's other people on here. Apparently, it's first stop was 4 hours back, we are the second pick up, all heading to Bangkok. I snagged the front seat next to a Chinese kid who clearly spoke no English. I told him to wake me if I squeeze him too tight, I tend to snuggle in my sleep. The humor was lost on him but not an Irish dude across the isle, Nigel. Asked the bus people what movie they'd be playing, none, it's too disturbing for those trying to sleep. It's not even 10pm, come on grandpa. Gave up, gave in, popped an ambien, reclined my seat, readied myself for 8 hours of bus sleep. At midnight, the bus people shook me, "you go eat". I'm not hungry, I'm sleeping. "We stop, you go eat." Ok already, a movie at 9:30 is disturbing but shaking a grown man out of heavy REM is not? Where am I? Enter the roadside food market, Not hungry enough for a meal, but now that you mention food. Grab a Magnum ice cream bar, chat with Nigel and head back to the bus. My Chinese seatmate is already situated, I again recline, shut my eyes, saw logs.
Nite nite from the iPhone blogger.
Day 60 - 61: 4 dives, 2 days, rinse and repeat.
Awake, roll over, check the time, 2:30am, roll back over, dream. Awake, roll over, check the time, 4:30am, roll back over, dream. Awake, roll over, check the time, 5:30am, close enough, grab the iPhone, click on the flashlight app, and start my day. There's 6 of us in the bungalow, 6 lights, but only 2 switches, both would wake everyone up. Grab the necessities and head out the door to meet at the diving shed.
Diving outfit consists of board shorts plus normal dive gear, that's it, such a treat. Around Catalina Island off the coast of LA, it's 55 degrees requiring a full 7mm suit, booties, hoody and gloves. After each dive you peal all the layers and accessories off, try to warm up, then slip back into your cold moist wetsuit and do it again an hour later. Not that I'm complaining about Catalina, cool dive site, but to dive with just boardies on and stay warm - amazing.
Today we dive Chumpon Pinnacle, 30m down. It's always a great dive, at least thats the rumor, I'll be the judge of that. Crossing my fingers for a whale shark. Paul, my Irish dive master is on the boat again, asked him to dial-a-whaleshark yesterday, he said the line was busy but he'd try again.
Did not bring my camera for the first dive, it recommends only 10m depth, though yesterday I took it to 18. Am not willing to risk 30m, too many pictures to lose. Dive was incredible, clarity was good, played with some angel fish, avoided the jaws of the triggerfish, got some video of a blue spotted sting ray. Second was at White Rock, another great site, tons to see and avoid, especially the scorpionfish, they look just like the rocks.
Day 61 & 62 are pretty much a rinse and repeat. Both days begin at 5:30am for 2 dives each off the coast of Koh Tao. Both days involve my compadres in class from early morning until mid afternoon. We always grab dinner together and most nights we hit the hay early to avoid consuming alcohol.
A few notable occurrences, we discover Larry in the rafters. Not sure what kind of lizard he is, but he's sizable and likes to aim for white linen sheets. No-Nic woke up one morning to find a stealth mission missed his face by inches. Oh Larry! On several occasions, large wirey spiders have joined us for a poo or while we brushed our teeth, or while Slug, Costa, and Snake screamed like little school girls jumping up on their bed as it scampered across the floor. Miss those little guys.
Had a strange run in with an English Bloke about 40 years of age. It was at Lotus Bar, night 62, and at first look, just thought he was socially odd. Was talking to my Phi Phi divemaster friend, Simon, when he approached. In a span of 7 minutes while talking about hot girls he touches my arm no less than 10 times and punches me in the gut. Dude! I leave to find my friends and 30 minutes later, he appears again, this time on the dance floor trying to grind up on me and a few other choice guys. I first tried the avoidance technique, moved away, to no avail, so it was time to be blunt. Dude, clearly your gay, that's cool, but I'm not interested, stop touching me. "I'm not GAY", says he in an offended tone as he tries to grind on me again. Dude, yeah, you are, I know it, you know it, every guy in this bars knows it. There's nothing wrong with that, but let me be clear, touching me, punching me, grinding me, that's not ok, back off. He sat there stunned, still obviously drunk, and before he could spout some ignorant nonsensical retort, I walked off the floor to another set of friends. He did not bother me again that eve, but later found him sitting next to Snake on a stump, way to close. I grab Snake, say let's go grab some food, and save Snakes skin, pun intended.
The last night, we stay up well past 4, I check my emails in the lobby, check the bball scores, the gang rolls on by me to our crib. It's now 5am, heading back to the bungalow to get some shuteye, have a 30 hour trek to Cambodia tomorrow.
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger.
Diving outfit consists of board shorts plus normal dive gear, that's it, such a treat. Around Catalina Island off the coast of LA, it's 55 degrees requiring a full 7mm suit, booties, hoody and gloves. After each dive you peal all the layers and accessories off, try to warm up, then slip back into your cold moist wetsuit and do it again an hour later. Not that I'm complaining about Catalina, cool dive site, but to dive with just boardies on and stay warm - amazing.
Today we dive Chumpon Pinnacle, 30m down. It's always a great dive, at least thats the rumor, I'll be the judge of that. Crossing my fingers for a whale shark. Paul, my Irish dive master is on the boat again, asked him to dial-a-whaleshark yesterday, he said the line was busy but he'd try again.
Did not bring my camera for the first dive, it recommends only 10m depth, though yesterday I took it to 18. Am not willing to risk 30m, too many pictures to lose. Dive was incredible, clarity was good, played with some angel fish, avoided the jaws of the triggerfish, got some video of a blue spotted sting ray. Second was at White Rock, another great site, tons to see and avoid, especially the scorpionfish, they look just like the rocks.
Day 61 & 62 are pretty much a rinse and repeat. Both days begin at 5:30am for 2 dives each off the coast of Koh Tao. Both days involve my compadres in class from early morning until mid afternoon. We always grab dinner together and most nights we hit the hay early to avoid consuming alcohol.
A few notable occurrences, we discover Larry in the rafters. Not sure what kind of lizard he is, but he's sizable and likes to aim for white linen sheets. No-Nic woke up one morning to find a stealth mission missed his face by inches. Oh Larry! On several occasions, large wirey spiders have joined us for a poo or while we brushed our teeth, or while Slug, Costa, and Snake screamed like little school girls jumping up on their bed as it scampered across the floor. Miss those little guys.
Had a strange run in with an English Bloke about 40 years of age. It was at Lotus Bar, night 62, and at first look, just thought he was socially odd. Was talking to my Phi Phi divemaster friend, Simon, when he approached. In a span of 7 minutes while talking about hot girls he touches my arm no less than 10 times and punches me in the gut. Dude! I leave to find my friends and 30 minutes later, he appears again, this time on the dance floor trying to grind up on me and a few other choice guys. I first tried the avoidance technique, moved away, to no avail, so it was time to be blunt. Dude, clearly your gay, that's cool, but I'm not interested, stop touching me. "I'm not GAY", says he in an offended tone as he tries to grind on me again. Dude, yeah, you are, I know it, you know it, every guy in this bars knows it. There's nothing wrong with that, but let me be clear, touching me, punching me, grinding me, that's not ok, back off. He sat there stunned, still obviously drunk, and before he could spout some ignorant nonsensical retort, I walked off the floor to another set of friends. He did not bother me again that eve, but later found him sitting next to Snake on a stump, way to close. I grab Snake, say let's go grab some food, and save Snakes skin, pun intended.
The last night, we stay up well past 4, I check my emails in the lobby, check the bball scores, the gang rolls on by me to our crib. It's now 5am, heading back to the bungalow to get some shuteye, have a 30 hour trek to Cambodia tomorrow.
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger.
Day 59: First Dive!
Awake late, bike is due at 11am, look at the clock, it's 11:15, buggers! They have my passport, always looking to scam and extra buck, better get a move on.
Get there by 11:20, check over bike, check over helmet, I pass, woo hoo! Get back to the resort after a sweaty 10 minute walk, passport in the one pocket, key to the moped in the other ... whoops. I'm leaving for my 2 dives at 12:15, 30 minutes, have not eaten, need to change, need to return the key, what should I do first? Eat! Hit up the resorts ocean side restaurant, put a rush on the order, get it 20 minutes later, but of course, and head to my room to change. No time to hit up the moped place, make it to the dive shed on time, work it out with them to stop by the moped place on way to the pier ... Dang I'm good!
Jump on the boat, meet my divemaster, Paul, first stop, Tanote Bay. It's a shallow dive, 18 meters deep at most (54 feet), but plenty to see. Next stop, Hin Wong Bay, another good site. Both dives were incredible, saw big and small, poisonous and harmless, growing and dead - just amazing. Won't bore you with the specifics, but when I secure a decent internet connection, facebook will be updated.
Get back, connect with the guys, they did their pool dive today. We are starving, head into town, eat at Tong's Kitchen off the main road - cheap cheap, good good. Stuff ourselves and then it was off on the search to find "The Game". Slug has been reading it for a few days and testing out his skills. Max ans Snake are intrigued, and the quest ensues. After a good mile down the brick path that parallels the beach, and multiple book store stops, Max Brannan gets lucky. Watch out ladies, he's sharing with Snake and Costa ... It spells trouble.
Leave everyone at the Internet cafe, make the scary 500m walk back to the resort down the pitch black broken concrete/dirt main road. Not scared of thieves, maybe a little bit of drunk motor bikers, but mostly of the dog packs and tarantulas. This morning Rollo told us he was chased by 5 dogs along the beach last night, all the way back to the resort. The rogue mean ones are out there, and they're looking to wreak havoc, I posture myself for attack. Find myself back at Coral Grand without incident, take a quick shower, and now it's time for an early departure to bed. I have a 6:15am boat to catch, 2 more dives, cross your fingers I see a whale shark!
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger!
Get there by 11:20, check over bike, check over helmet, I pass, woo hoo! Get back to the resort after a sweaty 10 minute walk, passport in the one pocket, key to the moped in the other ... whoops. I'm leaving for my 2 dives at 12:15, 30 minutes, have not eaten, need to change, need to return the key, what should I do first? Eat! Hit up the resorts ocean side restaurant, put a rush on the order, get it 20 minutes later, but of course, and head to my room to change. No time to hit up the moped place, make it to the dive shed on time, work it out with them to stop by the moped place on way to the pier ... Dang I'm good!
Jump on the boat, meet my divemaster, Paul, first stop, Tanote Bay. It's a shallow dive, 18 meters deep at most (54 feet), but plenty to see. Next stop, Hin Wong Bay, another good site. Both dives were incredible, saw big and small, poisonous and harmless, growing and dead - just amazing. Won't bore you with the specifics, but when I secure a decent internet connection, facebook will be updated.
Get back, connect with the guys, they did their pool dive today. We are starving, head into town, eat at Tong's Kitchen off the main road - cheap cheap, good good. Stuff ourselves and then it was off on the search to find "The Game". Slug has been reading it for a few days and testing out his skills. Max ans Snake are intrigued, and the quest ensues. After a good mile down the brick path that parallels the beach, and multiple book store stops, Max Brannan gets lucky. Watch out ladies, he's sharing with Snake and Costa ... It spells trouble.
Leave everyone at the Internet cafe, make the scary 500m walk back to the resort down the pitch black broken concrete/dirt main road. Not scared of thieves, maybe a little bit of drunk motor bikers, but mostly of the dog packs and tarantulas. This morning Rollo told us he was chased by 5 dogs along the beach last night, all the way back to the resort. The rogue mean ones are out there, and they're looking to wreak havoc, I posture myself for attack. Find myself back at Coral Grand without incident, take a quick shower, and now it's time for an early departure to bed. I have a 6:15am boat to catch, 2 more dives, cross your fingers I see a whale shark!
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger!
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Day 58: Lazy in the sun
Awake after a good 10 hours, remove my eye masks and ear plugs, everyone is still asleep. Slip out to the lobby where I can pick up wifi, check my emails, check the bball scores, check facebook. The guys join me 30 minutes later and it was off to lunch. They start their class today at 3, just theory and history, no water time until tomorrow.
They head to class, I head to Soiree Beach in search of a coffee shop for my fru fru coffee addiction. Stumble upon a place called Heaven, upon my first sip of their ice blended mocha, it made perfect sense. 2 hours later I make my exit, head back to the room to shower, clean up, and relax in the aircon.
The crew enters, they have homework, but much like high school, we all opt for the pool and beach. After dinner on the beach, we hit up Lotus again, last night to drink for them until the classes are over. No one wants to pay all that money to do something really cool and then ruin the experience with a hangover. I was in the lobby by midnight, needed to catch the game via my iPhone, it's KU/A&M and I have a good feeling we are going to pull this one out.
That was 2 hours well spent consistently refreshing the play by play on ESPN mobile. We have posted double digit wins in our last two conference games, which should position us well for both the Big 12 Tourney and the NCAA tourney!
Nite nite Bloggerville from your favorite Iphone blogger!
Awake after a good 10 hours, remove my eye masks and ear plugs, everyone is still asleep. Slip out to the lobby where I can pick up wifi, check my emails, check the bball scores, check facebook. The guys join me 30 minutes later and it was off to lunch. They start their class today at 3, just theory and history, no water time until tomorrow.
They head to class, I head to Soiree Beach in search of a coffee shop for my fru fru coffee addiction. Stumble upon a place called Heaven, upon my first sip of their ice blended mocha, it made perfect sense. 2 hours later I make my exit, head back to the room to shower, clean up, and relax in the aircon.
The crew enters, they have homework, but much like high school, we all opt for the pool and beach. After dinner on the beach, we hit up Lotus again, last night to drink for them until the classes are over. No one wants to pay all that money to do something really cool and then ruin the experience with a hangover. I was in the lobby by midnight, needed to catch the game via my iPhone, it's KU/A&M and I have a good feeling we are going to pull this one out.
That was 2 hours well spent consistently refreshing the play by play on ESPN mobile. We have posted double digit wins in our last two conference games, which should position us well for both the Big 12 Tourney and the NCAA tourney!
Nite nite Bloggerville from your favorite Iphone blogger!
Day 57: Motorbikes, Snarling Dogs, Tarantulas, oh my!
Awake after having some lucid yet amazing dreams. One involved friends from The Woodlands, another my family, several others I can't recall. I unfortunately wake with my darn problematic back ... I miss my Impostor NASA Foam Bed from home. Attempt to maneuver into a less painful position and return to slumber, no love, the bed is way too soft. Start to sit up, back is near spasm level, its a no go. Roll over and out, body in the pike position, feet hit first thankfully. Straighten up, posture up, tension subsides, slowly stretch, 5 minutes and good as n... well good enough.
It's early and no one else is up, saw a small coffee shop up the street with the key words in the window, wifi. Enter but before I order, I always ask two things. 1. What's your wifi password? 2. Is your wifi working? "Yes, 1 baht a minute." No no, I think you misunderstood, I want wifi password, don't need internet station. "Yes, 1 baht a minute." You understand English well? Just want wifi password. "Yes, I understand, 1 baht a minute. Internet 3 baht a minute." You charge for wifi? That's crazy, it's always free. "You go to Mae Head, free there." That's far, by chance is there any other establishment with free wifi down here? "No, you Mae Head." Okay okay. Head down the street to test her story, find another breakfast place, good menu but no wifi, not gonna do it. Back to where I started, blogging in the dark while sitting on my way too soft bed, minding my back. The crew continues to saw logs, I jealously blog.
10am is check out, pack up, grab a taxi, and head to the north end of Soiree Beach. Land at Coral Grand Dive Resort on the beach. The guys are getting their Padi Open Water certification there, comes with free lodging for the divers, but with the addition of James (Slug) and Mario (Costa), they have no problem with comping me as well - score! They hook us up with a sweet bungalow in the round, brick exterior, thatch roof, tall ceiling with tree limb columns and supports, sleeps 6 (2 Queens and 2 singles), 2 full open air bathrooms, aircon and satellite TV - this is more like it. Turn on the tele excited about regular western channels ... static. Check the cable, play with the connection, nada. Guess I'll have to suffer through my days at the infinity pool or the beach.
Back to the sleeping situation, only 2 singles which means 4 people have to share. Costa and Slug have yet to arrive which means they're sharing, 2 more to go, let the farkle begin. Yeah, I said farkle, don't play like you've never partaken. Still confused? In more boring regions, it's known by it's overtly obvious name - rock, paper, scissors. Best 2 out of 3. 1, 2, 3, shoot - 1, 2, 3, shoot - 1, 2, 3, shoot. Woot - winner number 1 coming from LA to ya live in Koh Tao, what what! Andy (No Nic) was the other, so Rollo (Max Brannan) and Paul (Snake) had to share, suckas!
Grab lunch, grab my passport, head off to the moped rental place. They inspect the bikes, mark down all existing gashes and scratches, hoping you will add a few. It's actually quite the scam. You can rent them for cheap, around 150 baht/day ($5usd), but a single scratch will cost you thousands of baht. They have your passport and will not return it until all is paid up. That's why the hotel encourages you to take pics beforehand because "they're cheap to rent, expensive to scratch."
Exploration of Koh Tao commences. It's a pretty easy island to navigate, there is one main road running north and south on the west side of the island, with little tributaries running over to the east side. However, you must be careful because many of these smaller paths turn into dirt paths at steep inclines or declines, leaving you in a "likely to wreck" mode. Just ask my friend Will - he and 2 others laid down their bikes on the dirt costing them respectively, 6,000 baht, 9,000 baht, 11,000 baht. To put it in perspective. Max Brannan and the crew are only paying 9,000 baht for their open water Padi course plus lodging for 5 nights. Yep, it's expensive. Fortunately for us, we were warned by one of the dive masters at Coral Grand, so taking that into consideration, we stopped when the pavement stopped, and hoofed it on foot the extra mile or so to secluded beaches.
A few lessons came from this romp on our hogs.
Number 1, there is a reason all the locals put their rides in the shade. No matter how perfect and ideal your location in the sun, the extra 20 meters of walking is worth much more than returning to your smoldering tar-like black plastic seat after it bakes in the 95 degree tropical sun.
Number 2, make sure the beach you think you are going to actually exists before going down a thousand steps. It is there, just 200 meters north of our descent, past treacherous algae covered boulders with sharp edges and crustaceous life forms. Once traversed we learn, only way back without adding a few miles to the journey, back the way we came, brilliant.
Number 3, even at slow speeds glasses are key because dirt and dust will find their way into exposed crevices, your eyes being the most detrimental one. Never been so thrilled to look like a raccoon, Easier to wash your face than your eyeballs.
After an adventurous day on the bikes, Costa and Slug are waiting at the resort. They had stayed in Koh Phangan an extra night and told tales of The Drunk being passed out naked holding himself, and the ghost-like condition of the town. Bonnie would have been left with him had she not made a last minute decision to meet us on Koh Tao as well, smart move!
So Costa, Slug, Max Brannan, Snake, No Nic and I all enjoyed a fine dinner on the beach at the resort before hitting up Lotus, the one happening bar on the island. Run into Bonnie, all the usual suspects from Full Moon, a few oldies but goodies from Phi Phi, as well meet some new additions, Sophie, Amy, Emma, Justine, Emilia, Chris, etc.
Its getting late, I'm in need of some solid sleep, Snake was ready as well, so we leave the other 4 to their own devices and head back along the beach to our bungalow, 500 meters up the beach. The tide is in, maybe 20 feet of beach between the ocean and the infrastructure, and then came the dogs. A note about all Thai islands, tons of random dogs roam everywhere, some nice, some mean, some with rabies. They are pack animals so typically if you see 1 you see 5. As we walk, we run into a curious one, sniffs around us, in the darkened shadows we cannot make out the temperament, so we continue at our normal pace. His pack mate was a bit easier to define, we hear snarling, see teeth in the moonlight. Remember there is not much room on the beach, so I do what I do, snarl back and position my sandal in my hand as a weapon. One aggressive step forward and he retreats. We quicken our pace and make it to the steps of the resort restaurant without further dog incident. As we turn down the sandy path to our bungalows, I see what I assume is a small puppy or lizard scurry on the ground towards Snakes feet, stops, turns around and retreats. Snake just thinks it's a big rat, I see it start to crawl sideways up the rock, that ain't no rat, it's got to be a huge crab. Camera in hand, I pursue, the mystery will soon be over. It crawls between a few large boulders, I position myself a good 10 feet away, flash illuminates the space before it snaps a shot and I realize, it ain't no crab, it's a massive arachnid, of the tarantula variety. It's body the size of a large fist, it's eight hairy extensions poised to jump, it's eyes fixate toward the light. As the camera flashes, it retreats a bit more, I only capture a few legs, start to yell, let's get out of here Snake. "What?" Tarantula. It's a huge tarantula! "Are you sure?" I got a picture but it moved, we can look back in the room, it could be on the move, I think I pissed it off, let's go!
Arrive back in the bungalow, sweating a bit from the quick step pace, brush my teeth, crawl into bed, and attempt to convince myself it could never get through our thatched roof ... Right?
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger.
It's early and no one else is up, saw a small coffee shop up the street with the key words in the window, wifi. Enter but before I order, I always ask two things. 1. What's your wifi password? 2. Is your wifi working? "Yes, 1 baht a minute." No no, I think you misunderstood, I want wifi password, don't need internet station. "Yes, 1 baht a minute." You understand English well? Just want wifi password. "Yes, I understand, 1 baht a minute. Internet 3 baht a minute." You charge for wifi? That's crazy, it's always free. "You go to Mae Head, free there." That's far, by chance is there any other establishment with free wifi down here? "No, you Mae Head." Okay okay. Head down the street to test her story, find another breakfast place, good menu but no wifi, not gonna do it. Back to where I started, blogging in the dark while sitting on my way too soft bed, minding my back. The crew continues to saw logs, I jealously blog.
10am is check out, pack up, grab a taxi, and head to the north end of Soiree Beach. Land at Coral Grand Dive Resort on the beach. The guys are getting their Padi Open Water certification there, comes with free lodging for the divers, but with the addition of James (Slug) and Mario (Costa), they have no problem with comping me as well - score! They hook us up with a sweet bungalow in the round, brick exterior, thatch roof, tall ceiling with tree limb columns and supports, sleeps 6 (2 Queens and 2 singles), 2 full open air bathrooms, aircon and satellite TV - this is more like it. Turn on the tele excited about regular western channels ... static. Check the cable, play with the connection, nada. Guess I'll have to suffer through my days at the infinity pool or the beach.
Back to the sleeping situation, only 2 singles which means 4 people have to share. Costa and Slug have yet to arrive which means they're sharing, 2 more to go, let the farkle begin. Yeah, I said farkle, don't play like you've never partaken. Still confused? In more boring regions, it's known by it's overtly obvious name - rock, paper, scissors. Best 2 out of 3. 1, 2, 3, shoot - 1, 2, 3, shoot - 1, 2, 3, shoot. Woot - winner number 1 coming from LA to ya live in Koh Tao, what what! Andy (No Nic) was the other, so Rollo (Max Brannan) and Paul (Snake) had to share, suckas!
Grab lunch, grab my passport, head off to the moped rental place. They inspect the bikes, mark down all existing gashes and scratches, hoping you will add a few. It's actually quite the scam. You can rent them for cheap, around 150 baht/day ($5usd), but a single scratch will cost you thousands of baht. They have your passport and will not return it until all is paid up. That's why the hotel encourages you to take pics beforehand because "they're cheap to rent, expensive to scratch."
Exploration of Koh Tao commences. It's a pretty easy island to navigate, there is one main road running north and south on the west side of the island, with little tributaries running over to the east side. However, you must be careful because many of these smaller paths turn into dirt paths at steep inclines or declines, leaving you in a "likely to wreck" mode. Just ask my friend Will - he and 2 others laid down their bikes on the dirt costing them respectively, 6,000 baht, 9,000 baht, 11,000 baht. To put it in perspective. Max Brannan and the crew are only paying 9,000 baht for their open water Padi course plus lodging for 5 nights. Yep, it's expensive. Fortunately for us, we were warned by one of the dive masters at Coral Grand, so taking that into consideration, we stopped when the pavement stopped, and hoofed it on foot the extra mile or so to secluded beaches.
A few lessons came from this romp on our hogs.
Number 1, there is a reason all the locals put their rides in the shade. No matter how perfect and ideal your location in the sun, the extra 20 meters of walking is worth much more than returning to your smoldering tar-like black plastic seat after it bakes in the 95 degree tropical sun.
Number 2, make sure the beach you think you are going to actually exists before going down a thousand steps. It is there, just 200 meters north of our descent, past treacherous algae covered boulders with sharp edges and crustaceous life forms. Once traversed we learn, only way back without adding a few miles to the journey, back the way we came, brilliant.
Number 3, even at slow speeds glasses are key because dirt and dust will find their way into exposed crevices, your eyes being the most detrimental one. Never been so thrilled to look like a raccoon, Easier to wash your face than your eyeballs.
After an adventurous day on the bikes, Costa and Slug are waiting at the resort. They had stayed in Koh Phangan an extra night and told tales of The Drunk being passed out naked holding himself, and the ghost-like condition of the town. Bonnie would have been left with him had she not made a last minute decision to meet us on Koh Tao as well, smart move!
So Costa, Slug, Max Brannan, Snake, No Nic and I all enjoyed a fine dinner on the beach at the resort before hitting up Lotus, the one happening bar on the island. Run into Bonnie, all the usual suspects from Full Moon, a few oldies but goodies from Phi Phi, as well meet some new additions, Sophie, Amy, Emma, Justine, Emilia, Chris, etc.
Its getting late, I'm in need of some solid sleep, Snake was ready as well, so we leave the other 4 to their own devices and head back along the beach to our bungalow, 500 meters up the beach. The tide is in, maybe 20 feet of beach between the ocean and the infrastructure, and then came the dogs. A note about all Thai islands, tons of random dogs roam everywhere, some nice, some mean, some with rabies. They are pack animals so typically if you see 1 you see 5. As we walk, we run into a curious one, sniffs around us, in the darkened shadows we cannot make out the temperament, so we continue at our normal pace. His pack mate was a bit easier to define, we hear snarling, see teeth in the moonlight. Remember there is not much room on the beach, so I do what I do, snarl back and position my sandal in my hand as a weapon. One aggressive step forward and he retreats. We quicken our pace and make it to the steps of the resort restaurant without further dog incident. As we turn down the sandy path to our bungalows, I see what I assume is a small puppy or lizard scurry on the ground towards Snakes feet, stops, turns around and retreats. Snake just thinks it's a big rat, I see it start to crawl sideways up the rock, that ain't no rat, it's got to be a huge crab. Camera in hand, I pursue, the mystery will soon be over. It crawls between a few large boulders, I position myself a good 10 feet away, flash illuminates the space before it snaps a shot and I realize, it ain't no crab, it's a massive arachnid, of the tarantula variety. It's body the size of a large fist, it's eight hairy extensions poised to jump, it's eyes fixate toward the light. As the camera flashes, it retreats a bit more, I only capture a few legs, start to yell, let's get out of here Snake. "What?" Tarantula. It's a huge tarantula! "Are you sure?" I got a picture but it moved, we can look back in the room, it could be on the move, I think I pissed it off, let's go!
Arrive back in the bungalow, sweating a bit from the quick step pace, brush my teeth, crawl into bed, and attempt to convince myself it could never get through our thatched roof ... Right?
Nite nite via the iPhone blogger.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Day 56: Koh Tao ... Suspect ferry & Dinner on Stilts
Rollo (Max Brannan), Paul (Snake), Andy (no nickname) & I say our farewells to Billy and the clan, but not before the drunk French geriatric, affectionately known as "the drunk" to us, stumbles in. When Full Moon is not in swing, most places are empty, especially hostels, so they will rent a bed cheaply without discernment. While on our moped ride, an older man clearly on a bender rolls into Fubar, Guy the manager gives him a bed. We return to find his stuff scattered but he is absentee and I had fallen asleep before his return. This particular morning before we packed to leave, Bonnie and Paul were having a snuggle, when our French friend strolls in still on the drink. He makes a few random comments, apologizes about something that happened last night ... apparently he had accused Snake of stealing his tablets ... and starts to tell Billy that he used to be in AAA. "Have you heard of that?" Billy says, "Uh yeah, it's a hospital or something, right?" Clearly in his condition referencing AA, Alcoholics Anonymous, but Billy in his amazingly naive way, without a clue did not intend to make him feel bad. After a few moments The Drunk sees Snake and Bonnie snuggling, "I'm not prejudice, I'm open minded, I don't care if 2 men share a bed." Bonnie replies, "I'm a woman." "Oh, then shall we shower together?" And with that he made his exit into the shower box. Bonnie declined the generous offer. Shortly after, we caught our taxi to the port for the "fast" ferry to Koh Tao.
At the dock, though you've bought a ticket, you still have to go to the window so they can stamp it. There we clarify, this is for the fast boat, 1hr and 10 minutes right? "Yeaaa, yeaaaaa", said in a exaggerated nasal way. Big side note about the female Thai accent - no language is unintelligible, but some are more annoying than others, female Thai being one. The men in Thailand just say what they will in short articulate Thai. The females on the other hand always sound like they are dragging out the last syllable in a nasally whine. Maybe it's how they are taught to speak, maybe in Thai it symbolizes femininity, but from an outside observer, it sounds submissive and a bit of an annoyance. Come visit, you will understand.
After having our tickets stamped at the SeaTram booth, we sit and wait, shocking, and 30 minutes later they wave us over to a boat that's been in dock since before we arrived. That's strange, why didn't we just get on it to begin with? Everyone piles on and within 15 minutes we know what has happened, they have scammed us. We paid an extra 100 baht for a fast boat, and we're clearly on a slow boat. Our 1 hour 10 min trip turns into just over 3.
We get off the boat, attempt to have a conversation with a little fat Thai who runs the operation from Koh Tao, trying to get our 100 baht back, mostly out of principle. He continues to be slimy and dismissive and tells us we must talk to home operations in Bangkok. What the what? Do you take money for trips here? "Yes." You have an office here? "Yes." Is this your company on the ticket? "Yes." Then you can give us a refund. "No." Yes you can but you won't. Ok, give us the number of the main office, let's call right now. "I no have, you go to Bangkok." Rollo and I argue like this for a good 15, get nowhere with the pithy little rotund Thai, cut our losses, grab a taxi and head to the southern part of the island ... where accommodations are supposed to be cheaper. Wrong! Cheapest place we could find that slept 4 was at JJ's or JP's or J something resort. We got a tiny room with two full beds, one extremely hard, one extremely soft, hot shower, AC, and satellite tv for 2,000 baht ($60usd). It was worth perhaps a 1000 at best, especially considering the satellite tv played 6 channels, none of them being in English. So far, Koh Tao is not all its been talked up to be. Might be my least favorite island yet.
Dinner left us with few options. I was determined not to eat where we were staying. I figured I should only bend over once per day and that already happened with the boat scam. If you count the overpriced room, I'm way over quota. We walk along the beach, then traversed a thin concrete bridge without railing about 100m to a restaurant on stilts over the water. The menu looked reasonable and the atmosphere was great, so we popped a squat and settled in for some grub. Started off with an order for 3 milkshakes, twix, mars, and snickers, and one water. The waiter looked at us, asked us to repeat, then looked at the kitchen, then back at us. "Can you do these milkshakes?" he looks at Rollo then back at the kitchen, but no one has appeared. "it's on the menu, right here." Rollo points them out. He looks at Rollo, then the kitchen, still no one there. Does he understand English? What we are saying? Looks back, "Yes", and with that leaves. 30 minutes later it was delivered. An hour after that we had our food, and a good 30 after that the bill surfaced. People were in a cue by the time we left, you would think they'd be a little more efficient to ensure more customers come through. Nope, not in Thailand. It is back to the room, I need to crash. Let's hope tomorrow is more of the Koh Tao I've heard about.
Nite nite via the iPhone Blogger.
At the dock, though you've bought a ticket, you still have to go to the window so they can stamp it. There we clarify, this is for the fast boat, 1hr and 10 minutes right? "Yeaaa, yeaaaaa", said in a exaggerated nasal way. Big side note about the female Thai accent - no language is unintelligible, but some are more annoying than others, female Thai being one. The men in Thailand just say what they will in short articulate Thai. The females on the other hand always sound like they are dragging out the last syllable in a nasally whine. Maybe it's how they are taught to speak, maybe in Thai it symbolizes femininity, but from an outside observer, it sounds submissive and a bit of an annoyance. Come visit, you will understand.
After having our tickets stamped at the SeaTram booth, we sit and wait, shocking, and 30 minutes later they wave us over to a boat that's been in dock since before we arrived. That's strange, why didn't we just get on it to begin with? Everyone piles on and within 15 minutes we know what has happened, they have scammed us. We paid an extra 100 baht for a fast boat, and we're clearly on a slow boat. Our 1 hour 10 min trip turns into just over 3.
We get off the boat, attempt to have a conversation with a little fat Thai who runs the operation from Koh Tao, trying to get our 100 baht back, mostly out of principle. He continues to be slimy and dismissive and tells us we must talk to home operations in Bangkok. What the what? Do you take money for trips here? "Yes." You have an office here? "Yes." Is this your company on the ticket? "Yes." Then you can give us a refund. "No." Yes you can but you won't. Ok, give us the number of the main office, let's call right now. "I no have, you go to Bangkok." Rollo and I argue like this for a good 15, get nowhere with the pithy little rotund Thai, cut our losses, grab a taxi and head to the southern part of the island ... where accommodations are supposed to be cheaper. Wrong! Cheapest place we could find that slept 4 was at JJ's or JP's or J something resort. We got a tiny room with two full beds, one extremely hard, one extremely soft, hot shower, AC, and satellite tv for 2,000 baht ($60usd). It was worth perhaps a 1000 at best, especially considering the satellite tv played 6 channels, none of them being in English. So far, Koh Tao is not all its been talked up to be. Might be my least favorite island yet.
Dinner left us with few options. I was determined not to eat where we were staying. I figured I should only bend over once per day and that already happened with the boat scam. If you count the overpriced room, I'm way over quota. We walk along the beach, then traversed a thin concrete bridge without railing about 100m to a restaurant on stilts over the water. The menu looked reasonable and the atmosphere was great, so we popped a squat and settled in for some grub. Started off with an order for 3 milkshakes, twix, mars, and snickers, and one water. The waiter looked at us, asked us to repeat, then looked at the kitchen, then back at us. "Can you do these milkshakes?" he looks at Rollo then back at the kitchen, but no one has appeared. "it's on the menu, right here." Rollo points them out. He looks at Rollo, then the kitchen, still no one there. Does he understand English? What we are saying? Looks back, "Yes", and with that leaves. 30 minutes later it was delivered. An hour after that we had our food, and a good 30 after that the bill surfaced. People were in a cue by the time we left, you would think they'd be a little more efficient to ensure more customers come through. Nope, not in Thailand. It is back to the room, I need to crash. Let's hope tomorrow is more of the Koh Tao I've heard about.
Nite nite via the iPhone Blogger.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Day 51-55: Koh Phangan, Full Moon Party and Five Full Moons!
Awoke about 11am after an unexpected night at the beach. Yes, Tim and I aimed to get some much needed shut eye and returned to our hostel early, but the bass and music from the beach was so loud, the walls were bouncing. So we gave it a go, and found that the party only gets started after midnight. There was fire, there was foam, there were bikinis and buckets a plenty, and let's not forget what led us there, all kinds of dance music. We stayed for what felt like an hour and by the time we hit the hay it was 4:30 in the morning - uh, so much for an early night.
So I awake at 11am, much earlier than desired, but not unexpected since the beds were like concrete. Awake Tim and we head to what becomes our favorite bistro of the week, Mama's Schnitzel.
The hostel was fairly empty when we left but filling up quickly. We meet the two Kiwi's, Chris and Ben, who broke hearts the entire week. There is Will, the British transplant from another hostel, White Elephant. Nicest guy and introduced us to a cool group of Brits he had already met. Then there was Bonnie, 6'2 beautiful brunette from London, and the only girl for a good 2 days, handled it like a champ. And together we held down the fort until the others came.
Everyday had a similar feel. Wake up in the late morning, stretch out my aching back, mattresses were thick mats you find at a gym, no give, like at The Rock (said in Sean Connery accent). Who thinks, hey, this looks like the most uncomfortable mattress in the world, let's by 23 of them for our hostel? Apparently Joe and Guy who own/run it. Actually asked Joe about it, his response, "they were $60/piece, a proper mattress is at least $100, multiply that by 23." Uh, yeah, so? Is that why we also don't have a sink in the hostel and are brushing are teeth in the concrete shower cubicle that backs up? They said they'll get to that in a few weeks ... Me thinks with all the pot intake, it'll be a few months or years. Good guys, nice as can be, just need a little more help in the organization and implementation part of their business.
We then head to the Chicken Schnitzel place with all the Hebrew written on the walls. Apparently chicken schnitzel is a Israeli thing ... who knew? For 60 baht you get 2 filets of deep fried battered chicken on a hoagie bun with lettuce, tomatoes and cucumber - can we say ooh ahh?! It's open 24 hours a day, always has a line, but runs quite efficiently. I've been there at 2am, 7am, noon, 6pm, midnight, always humming, always quick, always satisfying, not typical Thai pace ... glorious! Down at least one schnitzel with chips and maybe two depending on the hunger pains. So good!
It's then time to hit the beach. The sand is white and fine and feels soft to the touch. The only reason to wear flip flops here is if you see a broken bottle from the night before. Surprisingly by 1pm, when we arrive, you can scarce tell that people were partying until sunrise here, barely a remnant in the sand at all. We post up near the volleyball courts and the makeshift soccer field, make a b-line for the water, and it's off for a swim to the buoy. For all my British friends it's pronounced "boo-E" not "boy". They would say, "fancy a swim to the boy?" Uh, I don't see any kids out there ... I offered to correct them on several other words they mispronounce in England, like Vitamins and garages.
So after a good 100 meters out and a 100 meters back, it was time to chill on the sand. Depending on the day our cluster of towels and people would range anywhere from 4 to 14, relaxing, resting, recuperating. Occasionally someone would leave to pick up drinks, usually water for hydration purposes, but on occasion, Chang or Singha. And then it was back to being lazy in the sun on the sand.
Around 6pm the sun staggers to the western side of the island, leaving a shadow across the entirety of the beach. So then it's back to the hostel to shower up, connect up, and determine where dinner will be and at what time. Then most of the guys would hit up the internet for 30 minutes to an hour, luckily Fubar Hostel had free wifi, so I did not have to wander far.
By day 52 and 53, most of the hostel was full. We were joined by the English consortium that had been traveling for a bit together. It was the 19 year old Billy's birthday and they were set on getting him loaded. I caught up with them after they hit the first bar, damage had already ensued, Billy was definitely feeling it, but handling it well. I stole out of the hostel for a moment to grab some "me" time at the local coffee joint, D's Books. Yep, that's right, D's Books is a chain and on Koh Phangan as well as Phi Phi. They serve food and that night I had their chicken breast sandwich with a Mocha Ice Blended, all in, about $6usd. Yes, it's cheaper in Thailand than the US overall, but the islands can be pricey, especially with western food. This was a bit unusual for a night though, most nights we all ate together, whether at Mama's, the Irish Pub, or one of the multiple restaurants showing movies, it was a family affair.
After dinner, about 10:30ish, we meet back at the hostel to pick up stragglers or new additions, and then it is off to the beach. The beach has every kind of activity you could want, from fire juggling, to interactive fire Olympics with burning jump ropes and limbo rods, to foam, lots and lots of foam. And of course there are the stalls ... so many stalls, all with the same buckets willing to negotiate for your business. Remember in the movie Finding Nemo, the seagulls that constantly yelled, "mine, mine, mine?" Well imagine that same crew, behind wooden make shift bucket stands yelling, "here, here, here, hey you, here here here," and loudly at that. The first few times you pass, you fear you did something wrong, then you realize, nah, its just the liquor peddlers trying to make a buck. Buckets ranged from 120 baht ($4usd), depending on if you could suffer through a .3L bottle of Samsong, the local whiskey, can of Coke and Thai Red Bull additive. Or if you require the more sophisticated .3L bottle of Smirnoff Vodka, can of Sprite and Thai Red Bull additive, its a mere 150 baht ($5usd). I personally started with a vodka lemonade, as the Brits called it, but partook of everyone's bucket that I met, so endured through some Samsong as well. The night begins more in spectator mode at The Cactus Bar watching the intoxicated play with fire or juvenile games such as musical chairs and balloon stomp. Always good for a laugh. As the night progressed we moved south down the beach to Zoom and the Foam Party, and so much foam at that. Definitely spent a few nights traipsing through toxic smelling foam, head high and above, mucky sand below, creating tunnels and holding foam balls in my hand like Atlas holds the world above his head. Then you jump in the drink for a quick wash attempting to avoid where people are urinating.
Which brings me to a special night and the reason we all descended upon Koh Phangan, the Full Moon Party. The nights leading up to and down from Full Moon, built and tapered off from the group that descended upon the beach that night, all 20,000 + of them. Glow in the dark paint was the theme of the night, and styling ranged from sayings on peoples chests and backs, my favorite being a young lad who let his mate write whatever he wanted on his back, it said, "Sorry Girls, this way" with an arrow pointing down. Some opted for professionals who set up shop on the beach ... Eh, unoriginal. And then there's our crew - Billy, the 19yr old, became the artist, painting several of the guys up. On Andy, another Brit, a huge lightening bolt down the center of his face, Chris, tear drops on his cheeks, myself, the American Flag from forehead to jawline ... Well done Billy. I was the artist for one bloke, Rollo "Max Brannan", with his receding hairline I painted a target square in the center of his forehead. He's a Brit with a rapist wit, so he utilized the artwork all night long with the ladies. Paul "Snake", another Brit, shocking I know, put "gun" on one bicep, "show" on the other ... brilliant because they're non-existent. Good thing girls typically are pacifist and like personality over guns. Will head to Koh Tao with both of them, as well James "Slug", Mario "Costa", and Andy (no nickname yet).
So as a crew we headed out, everyone previously mentioned, plus Brit's Andy #2, Lachie, George, Steve, and a few ladies, Marilla (Brazilllll!!!!!) and Kiley (West Hollywood). Yeah, I know, I've met maybe 10 Americans my 8 weeks and in my hostel stays a girl who lives 15 minutes from my house. Crazy! Overall we were a dry wit crew, buying buckets, taking the piss at all around, splitting in smaller crews, and scouring the beach for prospects. It was class all the way ... Ok, maybe not but a phenomenal laugh all night!
And much like clock work, home by 4 or 5, take a shower, wash off all the paint, take some Ib profen, drink 1.5L of water, take a literal piss, and hit the concrete mattress for an uncomfortable 6 hours of tossing and turning.
All 6 nights was rinse and repeat, save the last day before we headed to Kho Tao, that was known as the day of the moped. Bonnie, Max Brannan, Snake, Billy, Andy and I all took to it, I being the only one confident and comfortable which equates to me riding the 2 Stroke manual. Did I mention that the infrastructure of this island involves pot holes and roads that apparently were made without concern to grading? On not one but three occasions while down shifting to first up a hill, my front wheel lost contact and it took all I had to bring it back down. Yeah, I'm kind of a stud on the bike, thinking Ducati crotch rocket when I return ... Yes? Uh, no, maybe a Vespa? Hit up a beach on the north end, took some amazing pics, caught the sunset, and there were 5 moons that eve. You can find that pic on facebook if your lucky ... Uh or not lucky, depending on perspective.
And that is a wrap for Koh Phangan, it was a blast, met amazing people, and now it's time for my sign off ... Nite nite from the iPhone blogger!
So I awake at 11am, much earlier than desired, but not unexpected since the beds were like concrete. Awake Tim and we head to what becomes our favorite bistro of the week, Mama's Schnitzel.
The hostel was fairly empty when we left but filling up quickly. We meet the two Kiwi's, Chris and Ben, who broke hearts the entire week. There is Will, the British transplant from another hostel, White Elephant. Nicest guy and introduced us to a cool group of Brits he had already met. Then there was Bonnie, 6'2 beautiful brunette from London, and the only girl for a good 2 days, handled it like a champ. And together we held down the fort until the others came.
Everyday had a similar feel. Wake up in the late morning, stretch out my aching back, mattresses were thick mats you find at a gym, no give, like at The Rock (said in Sean Connery accent). Who thinks, hey, this looks like the most uncomfortable mattress in the world, let's by 23 of them for our hostel? Apparently Joe and Guy who own/run it. Actually asked Joe about it, his response, "they were $60/piece, a proper mattress is at least $100, multiply that by 23." Uh, yeah, so? Is that why we also don't have a sink in the hostel and are brushing are teeth in the concrete shower cubicle that backs up? They said they'll get to that in a few weeks ... Me thinks with all the pot intake, it'll be a few months or years. Good guys, nice as can be, just need a little more help in the organization and implementation part of their business.
We then head to the Chicken Schnitzel place with all the Hebrew written on the walls. Apparently chicken schnitzel is a Israeli thing ... who knew? For 60 baht you get 2 filets of deep fried battered chicken on a hoagie bun with lettuce, tomatoes and cucumber - can we say ooh ahh?! It's open 24 hours a day, always has a line, but runs quite efficiently. I've been there at 2am, 7am, noon, 6pm, midnight, always humming, always quick, always satisfying, not typical Thai pace ... glorious! Down at least one schnitzel with chips and maybe two depending on the hunger pains. So good!
It's then time to hit the beach. The sand is white and fine and feels soft to the touch. The only reason to wear flip flops here is if you see a broken bottle from the night before. Surprisingly by 1pm, when we arrive, you can scarce tell that people were partying until sunrise here, barely a remnant in the sand at all. We post up near the volleyball courts and the makeshift soccer field, make a b-line for the water, and it's off for a swim to the buoy. For all my British friends it's pronounced "boo-E" not "boy". They would say, "fancy a swim to the boy?" Uh, I don't see any kids out there ... I offered to correct them on several other words they mispronounce in England, like Vitamins and garages.
So after a good 100 meters out and a 100 meters back, it was time to chill on the sand. Depending on the day our cluster of towels and people would range anywhere from 4 to 14, relaxing, resting, recuperating. Occasionally someone would leave to pick up drinks, usually water for hydration purposes, but on occasion, Chang or Singha. And then it was back to being lazy in the sun on the sand.
Around 6pm the sun staggers to the western side of the island, leaving a shadow across the entirety of the beach. So then it's back to the hostel to shower up, connect up, and determine where dinner will be and at what time. Then most of the guys would hit up the internet for 30 minutes to an hour, luckily Fubar Hostel had free wifi, so I did not have to wander far.
By day 52 and 53, most of the hostel was full. We were joined by the English consortium that had been traveling for a bit together. It was the 19 year old Billy's birthday and they were set on getting him loaded. I caught up with them after they hit the first bar, damage had already ensued, Billy was definitely feeling it, but handling it well. I stole out of the hostel for a moment to grab some "me" time at the local coffee joint, D's Books. Yep, that's right, D's Books is a chain and on Koh Phangan as well as Phi Phi. They serve food and that night I had their chicken breast sandwich with a Mocha Ice Blended, all in, about $6usd. Yes, it's cheaper in Thailand than the US overall, but the islands can be pricey, especially with western food. This was a bit unusual for a night though, most nights we all ate together, whether at Mama's, the Irish Pub, or one of the multiple restaurants showing movies, it was a family affair.
After dinner, about 10:30ish, we meet back at the hostel to pick up stragglers or new additions, and then it is off to the beach. The beach has every kind of activity you could want, from fire juggling, to interactive fire Olympics with burning jump ropes and limbo rods, to foam, lots and lots of foam. And of course there are the stalls ... so many stalls, all with the same buckets willing to negotiate for your business. Remember in the movie Finding Nemo, the seagulls that constantly yelled, "mine, mine, mine?" Well imagine that same crew, behind wooden make shift bucket stands yelling, "here, here, here, hey you, here here here," and loudly at that. The first few times you pass, you fear you did something wrong, then you realize, nah, its just the liquor peddlers trying to make a buck. Buckets ranged from 120 baht ($4usd), depending on if you could suffer through a .3L bottle of Samsong, the local whiskey, can of Coke and Thai Red Bull additive. Or if you require the more sophisticated .3L bottle of Smirnoff Vodka, can of Sprite and Thai Red Bull additive, its a mere 150 baht ($5usd). I personally started with a vodka lemonade, as the Brits called it, but partook of everyone's bucket that I met, so endured through some Samsong as well. The night begins more in spectator mode at The Cactus Bar watching the intoxicated play with fire or juvenile games such as musical chairs and balloon stomp. Always good for a laugh. As the night progressed we moved south down the beach to Zoom and the Foam Party, and so much foam at that. Definitely spent a few nights traipsing through toxic smelling foam, head high and above, mucky sand below, creating tunnels and holding foam balls in my hand like Atlas holds the world above his head. Then you jump in the drink for a quick wash attempting to avoid where people are urinating.
Which brings me to a special night and the reason we all descended upon Koh Phangan, the Full Moon Party. The nights leading up to and down from Full Moon, built and tapered off from the group that descended upon the beach that night, all 20,000 + of them. Glow in the dark paint was the theme of the night, and styling ranged from sayings on peoples chests and backs, my favorite being a young lad who let his mate write whatever he wanted on his back, it said, "Sorry Girls, this way" with an arrow pointing down. Some opted for professionals who set up shop on the beach ... Eh, unoriginal. And then there's our crew - Billy, the 19yr old, became the artist, painting several of the guys up. On Andy, another Brit, a huge lightening bolt down the center of his face, Chris, tear drops on his cheeks, myself, the American Flag from forehead to jawline ... Well done Billy. I was the artist for one bloke, Rollo "Max Brannan", with his receding hairline I painted a target square in the center of his forehead. He's a Brit with a rapist wit, so he utilized the artwork all night long with the ladies. Paul "Snake", another Brit, shocking I know, put "gun" on one bicep, "show" on the other ... brilliant because they're non-existent. Good thing girls typically are pacifist and like personality over guns. Will head to Koh Tao with both of them, as well James "Slug", Mario "Costa", and Andy (no nickname yet).
So as a crew we headed out, everyone previously mentioned, plus Brit's Andy #2, Lachie, George, Steve, and a few ladies, Marilla (Brazilllll!!!!!) and Kiley (West Hollywood). Yeah, I know, I've met maybe 10 Americans my 8 weeks and in my hostel stays a girl who lives 15 minutes from my house. Crazy! Overall we were a dry wit crew, buying buckets, taking the piss at all around, splitting in smaller crews, and scouring the beach for prospects. It was class all the way ... Ok, maybe not but a phenomenal laugh all night!
And much like clock work, home by 4 or 5, take a shower, wash off all the paint, take some Ib profen, drink 1.5L of water, take a literal piss, and hit the concrete mattress for an uncomfortable 6 hours of tossing and turning.
All 6 nights was rinse and repeat, save the last day before we headed to Kho Tao, that was known as the day of the moped. Bonnie, Max Brannan, Snake, Billy, Andy and I all took to it, I being the only one confident and comfortable which equates to me riding the 2 Stroke manual. Did I mention that the infrastructure of this island involves pot holes and roads that apparently were made without concern to grading? On not one but three occasions while down shifting to first up a hill, my front wheel lost contact and it took all I had to bring it back down. Yeah, I'm kind of a stud on the bike, thinking Ducati crotch rocket when I return ... Yes? Uh, no, maybe a Vespa? Hit up a beach on the north end, took some amazing pics, caught the sunset, and there were 5 moons that eve. You can find that pic on facebook if your lucky ... Uh or not lucky, depending on perspective.
And that is a wrap for Koh Phangan, it was a blast, met amazing people, and now it's time for my sign off ... Nite nite from the iPhone blogger!
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Day 50: The Longest Trek to Kho Phangan
Awoke at 7am to the sound of zippers fastening, plastic rustling, luggage being tossed around. A number of us in the dorm are heading off to other fun Thai destinations with departures between 6:30am and 8am, ours being 7:45. Arrive downstairs packed and ready for what I like to call the minibus lottery. We all pay the same standard amounts for the trip, but which driver and vehicle gets the call is any one's guess. Bags are being packed into a brand spanking new gray minibus, extra tall, with leather seats and proper AC ... it's not ours, it's going 45 minutes to Phuket Port. Next one arrives, not quite as new as the last, not extra tall, but leather seats, window curtains, still a recent model ... It's not ours, it's going 45 minutes to the airport. Next up, a late 90's model, clearly been in a few fender benders, torn seats, broken AC vents, no curtains, half packed with 6 people already, window seats gone, only middle and front by the gear shift available ... "Surat Toni?" ... crap, it's ours. Four plus hours lie ahead for this part of the trip, but who wants western comfort when you can have 3rd world charm ... Uh, me. It's why I call it the minibus lottery ... we lost!
The first stop is not 30 minutes after we begin, it's in the heart of Phuket, run down buildings, heavy traffic, no corner store to be found. Driver turns off the van, "10 minutes, toilet break", exits and disappears into a cold concrete building with only a door and no windows. Um, did anyone request to take a bathroom break? The response is a resounding no, but the van is getting hot, so we all exit, not seeing a toilet option anywhere. We wander the streets hoping for food and drink, but no corner markets, no restaurants, just more cold concrete buildings without windows or entrances. Closest thing we find is a little stand on the opposite side of the busy street, selling toast and jam for 10 baht. We feast on the basics, sweating buckets in the heat of the morning, then chill on a concrete stump in the shade, awaiting our drivers reappearance. 25 minutes later, he emerges from the non-descript building, finishes his cig, "let's go." Oh, are you ready now? Ok, that sounds like a fine idea, how was your Mom and Dad? Wife? Clearly this was a personal stop ...
Next stop is an hour and a half later, a side of the road concrete open air structure with corrugated metal roof, "10 minutes, toilet break." They had food here, and a version of a corner market, we plunder the ice cream bin and order up a chicken sandwich. This stop was more legit, thankfully. 30 minutes later were back in the mini, 1 more stop and then we hit the transpo station. "Take all your stuff, go in." Wait, do you mean our bags on top too? "All your stuff, go in, go in." Ok, ok, simmer down.
Do you recall my first day in Phuket where the van to my hostel made a detour at a transpo center? Same thing here. Basically 2 1/2 concrete walls, open air, thatch roof, with multiple desks, trying to figure out your exact destination, which you gave them upon entering the minibus. Once they find out your hotel, they try and upsell you to a "better" accommodation and for their special transportation on the island, always getting their cut. The girls I'm traveling with, Hannah and Taryn, are staying at Coco Hut, so I used their accommodations to keep the vultures back, and we refused to use their minibus on the island.
After an hour wait, its 2pm now, a full size double-decker bus pulls up ... air con, huge comfortable seats, lounge downstairs ... it's our next mode of transport. This one will take us to the ferry port in Surat Toni, 1 hour away. Where was this bad boy for the first 6?
We get to the ferry and in classic Thailand style, the port is empty. They kick us out of the bus and we cling to the shade around some weird empty building and the toilets. An hour later, the ferry arrives, drops off their load, then we play more of the same waiting game, I assume to clean, and 30 more minutes pass. We load it beyond a reasonable capacity, every seat is taken, people are stacked up, the outside decks are sardinish, and then we see more approach. I have my seat, I'm thankful, more pour in, sit on the floors, in the aisles, leaning against walls. Pretty sure there's no fire marshal regulations, especially considering we are trapped in the hull below with only 1 exit, and overstuffed - again, welcome to Thailand!
3 1/2 hours later, around 8pm we arrive at Kho Phangan, finally. All of our big bags were loaded on the back of the ferry when we arrived and since we were first on, ours are at the bottom of the pile, which means we wait. As you exit there are 20 or so people screaming out, "taxi, where you go, taxi?" The system for bag retrieval is a bit of a Thai mess, as expected. The ferry workers want the bags off the boat, so they can shut her down and call it a night. They form a chain and throw all the bags up on the "capital letter E" shaped concrete dock. All the bags go into a pile at the top extended part of the E, there are no lights, just the mayhem of people trying not to plummet into the ocean 15 feet below while mining for their bag among the hundreds. Brilliant system. All 4 of us finally retrieve our bag and head to the taxi, 100 baht each. And we finally arrive at Haad Rin, the beach town where Full Moon is at just past 9:30pm. The taxi attempts to drop us off at the center of town, but Hannah was having none of that, refused to get out, and they took us to Coco Hut Resort.
They check in, we ask how much extra for a 3rd ... Uh, 4500 baht - about $150 usd. Uh, to share a room with two others, I don't think so. Found Tim, our Aussie travel buddy, at his hostel, Fubar, literally 50 feet from the Full Moon Beach. They had one bed open for 3500 baht - you have to reserve 5 nights with the full moon party - and I snagged it up.
Grab some grub with the girls and Tim and time for bed ...
Nite nite, iPhone Blogger Out!
The first stop is not 30 minutes after we begin, it's in the heart of Phuket, run down buildings, heavy traffic, no corner store to be found. Driver turns off the van, "10 minutes, toilet break", exits and disappears into a cold concrete building with only a door and no windows. Um, did anyone request to take a bathroom break? The response is a resounding no, but the van is getting hot, so we all exit, not seeing a toilet option anywhere. We wander the streets hoping for food and drink, but no corner markets, no restaurants, just more cold concrete buildings without windows or entrances. Closest thing we find is a little stand on the opposite side of the busy street, selling toast and jam for 10 baht. We feast on the basics, sweating buckets in the heat of the morning, then chill on a concrete stump in the shade, awaiting our drivers reappearance. 25 minutes later, he emerges from the non-descript building, finishes his cig, "let's go." Oh, are you ready now? Ok, that sounds like a fine idea, how was your Mom and Dad? Wife? Clearly this was a personal stop ...
Next stop is an hour and a half later, a side of the road concrete open air structure with corrugated metal roof, "10 minutes, toilet break." They had food here, and a version of a corner market, we plunder the ice cream bin and order up a chicken sandwich. This stop was more legit, thankfully. 30 minutes later were back in the mini, 1 more stop and then we hit the transpo station. "Take all your stuff, go in." Wait, do you mean our bags on top too? "All your stuff, go in, go in." Ok, ok, simmer down.
Do you recall my first day in Phuket where the van to my hostel made a detour at a transpo center? Same thing here. Basically 2 1/2 concrete walls, open air, thatch roof, with multiple desks, trying to figure out your exact destination, which you gave them upon entering the minibus. Once they find out your hotel, they try and upsell you to a "better" accommodation and for their special transportation on the island, always getting their cut. The girls I'm traveling with, Hannah and Taryn, are staying at Coco Hut, so I used their accommodations to keep the vultures back, and we refused to use their minibus on the island.
After an hour wait, its 2pm now, a full size double-decker bus pulls up ... air con, huge comfortable seats, lounge downstairs ... it's our next mode of transport. This one will take us to the ferry port in Surat Toni, 1 hour away. Where was this bad boy for the first 6?
We get to the ferry and in classic Thailand style, the port is empty. They kick us out of the bus and we cling to the shade around some weird empty building and the toilets. An hour later, the ferry arrives, drops off their load, then we play more of the same waiting game, I assume to clean, and 30 more minutes pass. We load it beyond a reasonable capacity, every seat is taken, people are stacked up, the outside decks are sardinish, and then we see more approach. I have my seat, I'm thankful, more pour in, sit on the floors, in the aisles, leaning against walls. Pretty sure there's no fire marshal regulations, especially considering we are trapped in the hull below with only 1 exit, and overstuffed - again, welcome to Thailand!
3 1/2 hours later, around 8pm we arrive at Kho Phangan, finally. All of our big bags were loaded on the back of the ferry when we arrived and since we were first on, ours are at the bottom of the pile, which means we wait. As you exit there are 20 or so people screaming out, "taxi, where you go, taxi?" The system for bag retrieval is a bit of a Thai mess, as expected. The ferry workers want the bags off the boat, so they can shut her down and call it a night. They form a chain and throw all the bags up on the "capital letter E" shaped concrete dock. All the bags go into a pile at the top extended part of the E, there are no lights, just the mayhem of people trying not to plummet into the ocean 15 feet below while mining for their bag among the hundreds. Brilliant system. All 4 of us finally retrieve our bag and head to the taxi, 100 baht each. And we finally arrive at Haad Rin, the beach town where Full Moon is at just past 9:30pm. The taxi attempts to drop us off at the center of town, but Hannah was having none of that, refused to get out, and they took us to Coco Hut Resort.
They check in, we ask how much extra for a 3rd ... Uh, 4500 baht - about $150 usd. Uh, to share a room with two others, I don't think so. Found Tim, our Aussie travel buddy, at his hostel, Fubar, literally 50 feet from the Full Moon Beach. They had one bed open for 3500 baht - you have to reserve 5 nights with the full moon party - and I snagged it up.
Grab some grub with the girls and Tim and time for bed ...
Nite nite, iPhone Blogger Out!
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